How would you fix this leak?

This pump has about 23-24 hours on it and it’s leaking a little out of this cap when I began to use my surface washer. Usually I’d either just tighten it or take it off and put Teflon tape but wanted to ask as pressure washer pumps are a new thing for me.

Looking at other places I was thinking of taking it off and putting Teflon tape two or three times and put it back in but just hand tighten not super tight.

It has a washer around it but it doesn’t appear to be a squash washer. Anyways what do you all think before I do anything? It’s a comet zwd4040 and it’s still very much in warranty. Also they don’t publish torque specs for this or I would use a torque wrench.

No tef tap. Is it lose? Have you tightened it?

I wanted to avoid tightening it till I asked because it is a brass head so didn’t want to over-tighten or anything. Also, what would you do if no tef tap?

Also to answer the question of “is it loose?” It doesn’t feel loose at all but I mean I could certain probably make it “less lose”. Just feel like it might crack the brass or something.

I would tighten it. There’s also about 50 sites on bing that come up when you search specs. But, if it’s leaking, tighten it.

Would it be the same as the caps that go on the valves so 60lbs? In my manual, it talks about torque specs but makes no mention of the outlet/inlet caps so I didn’t want to make assumptions. Sorry for the stupid questions btw… Just never had a nice pump before so I’d rather keep it that way.

Just realized these are NM settings so I should of said 44 ft lbs

Asking the question differently isn’t going to change my answer. It’s a pump. A hunk of brass. If it’s leaking, tighten it. Use common sense. If you turn it and it is already tight, don’t tighten it anymore. If it’s tight and still leaking take it to you vendors or pull it out and beat the washer flat, clean the threads, and tighten in back up.

no stupid questions when you’re just trying to be 100% certain with your investment

Check if it’s loose, if not call russ at southside equipment you probably need a new seal washer, if that doesn’t fix it you might have a cracked pump but start with that, I had the same issue and a new seal washer was the solution, machine was under warranty still

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Thanks for the reply. I’m really hoping it’s just the seal washer because it only does it when you squeeze the trigger on the gun. Just a little drip coming out but then when you let go and turn off the engine. The pump maintains the set PSI that it stops with. I attempted to tighten it slightly(I really don’t want to overtighten it) and it stopped for a small amount of time but then after about 30 minutes of usage, it started to drip again.

Perhaps they didn’t put enough thread sealant on it from the factory and it’s backing off slightly? It’s weird how it doesn’t do it when the trigger isn’t pulled but the vibrations are much less as well when the trigger isn’t pulled.

It does it because when you’re not on the trigger the unloader is bypassing a lot of water. Here’s the link to the thread where other guys and me have had the same problem, that plug does not get Teflon or pipe sealant it can go into your pump and mess with the check valves if you’re unlucky

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Thanks for the good explanation that makes a lot of sense also thanks a lot for the link. I hope comet pumps are the same on their warranty. Did you buy your machine from Southside or is that just how the manufacturers work that anyone can who sells their pumps can do warranty work like that?

Ok, it was explained to me a while back these plugs can start leaking because the crush washer gets too flattened out, so just replace that and tighten back. Happened to my GP three years ago.

What kind of unloader do you have? Is it pressure trapping? If so you need to keep your hand on the trigger when either starting or stopping the engine. Also consider purchasing a ZK1 ASAP. One of the most affordable and awesome upgrades you can do for your machine. If you have one of those you do not have to hold onto the trigger when stopping and starting and also you won’t have that kick every time you pull the trigger.

Be wary. You don’t have to hold them trigger to start a machine with a pressure unloader either. Squeeze the trigger slowly and it won’t kick. Unless you you a pressure unloader your going to find ds’ing iffy sometimes.

The one I currently have is a VRT3 EZ Start unloader and a regulator. It holds pressure when you turn the engine off but if you pull the pull start it is very easy to pull and I don’t have to work at it at all. Pressure will be trapped in my pump until I either

Attempt to start again - Pull cord
Pull Trigger

I honestly though that was how they were supposed to operate. The ZK1 bleeds off the pressure after it’s turn off?

It’s a flow sensing unloader and it mostly eliminates the spike when on and off the trigger.

Man that actually sounds like a very nice unloader… The one I have when you have it off and release the pressure you can audibly hear a “click” of the unloader closing. I honestly though I had got a fairly nice unloader but one that can actually prevent the spikes and such does sound very nice.

Btw I contacted Comet to ask for the opinion of the warranty department/tech support before continuing so then I have documentation that I did that incase something worse is wrong.

They told me to attempt to tighten first. If that doesn’t fix it then they actually told me three wraps of teflon tape on it but to not do the last few threads(which I knew but was nice they reinforced that). I asked specifically about the washer and they said they didn’t believe it would need to be swapped with the teflon tape being put on but to call back if it still leaked and they’d look at sending a new one out as well. If that didn’t fix it then they’d want to see if it has a crack.

If you put tef tape on it and it still leaks teehee the tape off before you let them look at it. They’ll have no clue who told you that and it will void the warranty.