How would you even go about removing rust of this magnitude? I couldn’t believe the buildup on the brick as well and couldn’t really understand where it all has come from. Looks like it’s come from cleaning out whatever is behind that loading dock door.
I would surface clean the concrete and clean the wall by hand first then use F9 BARC or One Restore straight. Lots of dwell time and a stiff brush
Great before and after pics……
Lots of rusty trailers!
the heck! I’m not buying barc for that… I’ll be making it for that much rust, i don’t need no bufferred formula.
I’m not an expert by any stretch, what would you use, muriatic?
acids work, neutralize afterwards lots of acids can be used. Barc, as @Redjess stated is a buffered acid. I like the buffered on a painted surface (white) as it reduces the yellowing that can occur from oxalic.
exactly, at least someone on here agrees that the stuff is pricey/overpriced.
The majority of rust I deal with is chair rings on a back porch or driveways, what’s your procedure typically in those situations?
Fill me in. What do you mean by buffered?
i mean that the barc just doesn’t allow to work at full strength, almost like it works in layers. think of it somewhat similar to an extended release.
what i meant was I’d cheaper to just mix your own batch and also its in concrete so no real harm could come of it. it would cost much more to use barc. much more.
I mainly remove rust from big tanks, paint prep, and sometimes on concrete if they want it done. You know that you have to wind up doing the whole thing to make it blend, or at least to the control joints. The main thing I get is where they let the shovels sit all winter, move them around a bit and they have orange lines all over.
Some of the members on here turned me on to other acids. Rubber scrubbers use them all the time. I mainly stick to oxalic for most applications, but I carry some muriatic and some stuff @Hotshot schooled me on years ago . He and marine grunt gave me some starter lessons. I do like barc for white tanks, as the oxalic seemed to yellow the paint some. Etching is the biggest concern on concrete. You have to neutralize acid on concrete, otherwise you risk acid attack. Water isn’t a neutralizer, it is a diluting agent and concrete is porous.
PPE is a must with the stronger acids. I think there is a thread here somewhere all about acids.
What would you use to mix your own batch? I have some F9, I guess I could look at the SDS and pull main ingredients?
I’ve seen others mention Oxalic acid, but this amount of seems to be to extreme for oxalic, ya?
Clean off what you can, like you would before any rust treatments. then treat with your own batch. nothing more to it but to rinse thoroughly and neutralize if necessary.