Electric start

Any links to an electric start module I can buy and install myself? Tired of pulling the string lol.

I did look around my self , go to you tube and research it…

I’m ok with installing it, I’m just trying to found out where to buy the module.

https://www.google.com/search?q=electric+start+add+on+gx390&oq=electric+start+add+on+gx390&aqs=chrome..69i57.7036j0j8&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8

Edit: the motor that comes with this kit doesn’t fit properly. The mount diameter is too large for the knockout that comes on the newer gx390’s. you can dremel out the opening to fit, but it’s a pain in the neck!


This is the one I just bought, and am installing as I write this:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01CK2ZPCI/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Couple things you will need in addition to the kit:

Two M8x1.25 bolts to mount the motor
Three M6x1.0 bolts to mount the control unit
An M6x1.0 Tap to thread the holes where the control unit mounts

You may also find a puller useful. The original flywheel was a real treat to pry off

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Great stuff everyone! I have a GX390 that has already broken a rope once, and looks like it is about to break the replacement.

Thanks for that info Alex… after reading what you wrote, i searched the web and found several people talking about that problem, as well as some saying the keyway was misaligned. Was thinking about getting it, but dont know after reading all that… looks like a chore.

Here is a guy talking about how he fixed it:

There is also a video on youtube of a guy showing that the starter wont fit, but he doesn’t record how he fixed it.

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Yep, I actually found those threads in my research before ordering. The supplier couldn’t give me an answer on whether anything had changed, so I held my breath and went ahead and ordered anyway.

So far I’ve managed to bore out the opening to fit the motor. There are clearance issues with the pressure pump, so I had to relocate the solenoid to another bolt on the motor, and cut off one of the mount points to make it fit. So this is project is now at the point of no return… quite literally.

There is also a clearance issue with the control box and pump. I had to bend back the lower mounting wing on the box to make that fit. And the two holes on the mounting plate don’t line up perfectly with the tapped holes in the engine block. But it looks close enough that it should pull in to place ok.

I should have bought longer bolts for the motor mount. The mounting point is much thicker than I realized. Get something at least two inches long.

Wiring seems like a bit of a guessing game, even with the instructions provided from the seller (I had to email them for it). I think I do have it sorted out, though.

I’m not bothering with the charging coil, as I’ll be starting this off a dedicated circuit on the vehicle.

That’s all for now :+1:t2:

How’d this pan out? I’m curious. I just found that Northern Tool sells Honda GX390’s with electric starts factory installed. What you’re talking about sounds like a pain. If the electric start can be bought separate from the motor as a “repair part” and it’s reasonable I’ll probably go that route, but I’m still curious how this is working for you.

Oh, here’s the kicker: the magneto is in a different location on the newer 390’s, so they keyway is cut in a different position. Wanna see how a small motor sounds running 30° out of time?

After much more research, and calling half a dozen local machine shops, I’ve decided what I’m gonna do is remove the key from the crankshaft and mount up the electric start flywheel by sight, and torque it down real well with some lapping compound. Lots of racing motors get built without a crankshaft key; it’s primarily meant for alignment, not actually holding the position.

But for now I’ve just been using the pull start with the old flywheel.

If you can get oem parts, go for it. Just make sure it’s for the new version, not the pre-2011 kit that I got.

So the theme here is pony up the extra when purchasing this machine in the future. I applaud you for the persistence in getting it to work. Great thread.

Most small engines…racing engines as well…time off the flywheel. I have had a good bit of exposure to kart racing and the key DOES serve a purpose…if the flywheel moves from the stock index position, it either advances or retards the timing. If you are going to run it without a key…you really need to get it secured to prevent the flywheel from moving. Actually, I have never been able to get a flywheel to stay properly indexed without a key…primarily due to starting. Going from still to abruptly moving due to manual start or electric start has always presented problems in keeping the flywheel from slipping out of index, with no key.

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Hey guys, any update on the best way to make this conversion? I’m also tired of pulling strings lol.

Man… I looked and looked too. It sounds like the easiest conversion is to buy the 390 with the factory keystart and removed 4 bolts that holds it down. Lol

I live down the road from a northern tool so I can check it out. Not looking forward to dropping 500 or more bucks for the same motor, but it’s so inconvenient lol. I’d rather not mess with stuff I don’t know about.

Or you could keep pulling for now and find a piece of equipment on Craigslist for a song with a 390, tune the thing up, learn on the way, and put a key start in it after attending YouTube university. Lol

It sounds like fun, but @racer will be stopping by shortly to dad bomb me again…

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Thought you were going hunting. But knowing you, you’re sitting in your stand rebuilding your rifle or better yet reading a $15 book on how to turn a $25 fishing reel into a $50 reel in only 12 hours, thereby losing 12 hours of prime hunting and/or fishing time in which time you could have landed a record setting fish. Just saying…:sunglasses:

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I have a good reply but not enough time to type it before I lose signal again.

Hahahahhahhaha

My God all this work just so you don’t have to pull a rope 1 or two times??? Ok here is an easy fix, get a 24 volt recharable drill. Weld a socket on it. Now take the pull start off the Honda, now weld a nut to the crank shaft that matches the socket on the drill… Wala problem solved…