Hey ya’ll greetings to the 2021 season. I have a question if any of you know how to rig the remote system up with a valve that does not clog my downstream plug. This is a photo of last seasons problematic one that was home built.
Thanks for the input.
What is this downstream plug you’re talking about? We need a little more info on what you got going on
Don’t use brass
Thanks mate! Great to see your response!
I wonder, has anyone tried taking the valve body out of one of these motorized ball valves, and swapping it with a standard dn10 high pressure ball valve? Then it could be used to remote control an injector bypass.
That’s essentially what they’ve done with the flowpro remote system, but I can’t track down what actuator they used. $600 seems a bit steep for something that doesn’t even include the bypass plumbing.
Also, has anyone figured out how to rig up one of the reverse polarity motorized valves to a remote controller?
Yes it’s called the Flow Pro
I’m not a fan of it but here’s the link
Yep, that’s it. Like I said, $600 seems a bit steep for what it is.
Now that I really look at it, I bet most of the money is in creating a custom mounting bracket for the dn10. This looks like it may have been cnc’d:
All the other parts can’t amount to $75 when bought wholesale.
Why aren’t you a fan?
Yep, I read and the guy who got it figured out had to have it all custom done to fit the ball valve. Here is a DIY one.
I think it’s an awesome concept but super expensive for what it is…much like the proportioner. I’ll wait for more reasonably priced versions to come to market before I get one.
I’m just as much a fan of this as I am the schertz box. Both made with quality materials and the Flow has a 1 year warranty on everything but the DN10 valve itself.
Believe it or not, I actually have that bolt on actuator, along with a cheap remote system, sitting in a box in my shop. I’ve put off installing it for the last 3+ years, because I felt it needed some weatherproofing and I just haven’t gotten around to buying an enclosure and doing it. 
I also am not crazy about that bolt on arm contraption. I feel like it’s going to work itself loose.
I think you could probably machine a thread coupler/adapter that goes straight from the screw on the bottom of the actuator, to the stem of the valve. Then drill and tap a couple of set screws so it doesn’t unscrew itself.
You have fun with all that!!! Haha I think the device is about $200 overpriced but it’s awesome.
Why bother. The guy in video spent hours building that and made an erroneous statement and assumption w/o bothering to spend, literally, less than 3 min testing. My large machine thru my m5ds nozzle flows 8.7 gal when running straight thru. When bypass is on, running thru injector, it flows 7.7 gpm, so I rarely cut mine off unless doing the drive.
ON 4gpm, absolutely no measurable difference.
With high pressure, reduces psi right at 600psi +/- 50psi
Don’t have a 5.5 but would be willing to bet reduces flow less than .5 gpm but would be curious to know if someone has one, what actual results are.
Probably even less than that. Maybe 1/4 gpm. But I am able to reach 3-4 feet higher using the bypass, which makes all the difference on some houses.
Hmmm, you’re right, does make a slight difference. Wonder if that’s flow difference or pressure loss difference. Darn you Alex, now something else I’ll have to test for, lol. Unless you want to. I’ll know by end of week.
All other things being equal, flow loss == pressure loss.
Noticeable flow loss when surface cleaning on my 5.5 with the 16" WW Ultra. Almost doesn’t want to float. Not as noticeable using the M5DS.
They’re not equal though, because you’re using a nozzle. You may be able to make up the difference by using different nozzle
Exactly, increased pressure results in reduced flow.
I’m not a fan for some reasons, one because the owner rubbed me the wrong way when speaking to him. That’s just a personal thing… but his claims were wild about how much more flow you get… but his unit is configured just like most people set up their bypass… wrong. I believe having the injector in the loop like racer does because it just make sense for the flow to cut straight through instead of hitting all the 90’s to go around the injector.
Plus I have a schertz box already for starting and stopping soap remotely with the benefit of it rinsing the injector out every time i stop soap. So no need for a remote bypass I’ll never use.
So that’s my reasons for not liking it.
A bypass does give you about a 1/2 gallon of extra flow but… on a 8 gpm machine, I don’t necessary find myself using the bypass too much unless I have a huge area to surface clean and I want the absolute best flow it can possibly give me… but I barely notice the difference. I already bought a bypass so I’m going to use it but. Whenever I do bypass the injector I also bypass my hose reel and use a unloader block for 2 less 90’s for flow. But again, I barely notice a difference so… I don’t see the benifit already owning a schertz box.
If I need to turn my bypass then right after I get my surface cleaner off the rig I just turn the valve right there and I’m off. No point in turning the valve open remotely when I can do it right there. Because once I turn the valve to bypass, I have no reason to turn it back on. I’m not downstreaming anything while I surface clean… so… when I’m done, I put my surface cleaner away and twist the valve closed to soap again if I need to… Just my thoughts.
