These are the exact parts used on the “dougenator” or the “infuser” sold by another vendor.
No idea on patents, just giving out the info.
Build you own for $120
Only thing it’s missing is a 3/4 x 3/4 barb 90 degree elbow on the intake side.
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I was just trying to assemble this this weekend. Thanks man.
That cross is a beast to try to find.
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I’m sure we’ve all priced them a few times
Thanks!
Screenshot it before it gone lol
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Yes it is, I went to a lot of hardware stores trying to find it. I’ve actually been waiting to pull the trigger on this. I had a lot of valves that came with the old true green truck I bought, was trying to make those work. But for the $$ I’ll jjst order this tonight
Those are also the same check valves on the proportioner that they brag about …, $10. Lol
Thank you for this! Built my own. Have yet to test. Though will say that no chlorinator is designed to perfection. All mine measure a different value for fully closed. Shall I say “barely” closed. So gotta kinda “find 0” w these rainbow pentaire valves to get a more precise measure. Maybe not since I haven’t tested. On that note which of the 3 would you recommend for the water? I’d say the direct center of the 3 since its a direct straight flow.
Anyone built one of these and know about what the surfacant valve and SH valve should be set on for different ratios?
Should the cross be 1/2 inch if I am using 1/2 everything else?
No, I take side should be 3/4
Intake
Rainbow control valve sold out on that site but Amazon has one for $24 Amazon.com
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Does the intake have to 3/4" for the 7 GPM pumps or 5 GPM pumps as well? I feel like I’ve seen 1/2" intakes on these blend manifolds before… I have a 5.3 GPM Remco.
1/2” is fine, a lot of diy and makers of these use 1/2”. Some like the 3/4” though.
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Okay, so I’m not crazy then. 
Nope 
Can anyone who built this give insight to durability and dilution ratios etc. I will be testing mine this weekend.
Thanks in advance
@OC2X I can give you my thoughts if you wish. I built this setup over the winter and began using it this spring. Instead of a Pentair valve for the soap I used a SMC needle valve. I purchased a majority of the parts through US Plastics. They had better prices for some items, even less expensive than Amazon. Between Amazon and US Plastics I was into it for a lot less money than other “pre-built” systems. As for durability, it has held up well, for the 8-10 hours I have used it thus far. My only issue was over tightening one of the Pentair valves as I must have cracked it and it leaked. As for dilution rates, I created a chart by varying the settings for the SH (I leave the water wide open). I think your best bet would be to run your lines (length of lines will vary draw rates) and just run water. I used 15 gallon containers and pumped water, making note of how much water and how much SH (also water) was used. I never tried using soap in my tests, but found that the needle valve gave me more control in adjusting how much soap I used in real life. If you want to message me I can send you what my SH percentages came out to be. I am using a 7 GPM Delavan with an accumulator tank. I have used it for a couple roofs and over a dozen first generation Trek decks and I won’t go back to batch mixing.
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I build one as well, I will tell you I about gave up on trying to make the thing work. It kept leaking for some reason but only when I had it connected to the wand to stop flow… it would build up pressure and somehow make its way back to my proportioner and cause a leak. I had to put a check valve after the proportioner and that stopped it… I also used pipe dope and teflon and could not for the life of me to get pipe dope to work and create a seal. It has held up well though and seems to work just fine
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Thanks for the input. I may put another check valve in also. I will add soap to my sh tank and cap third valve on the cross. I also used us plastics to order all but the pentair valves. I will test hopefully this weekend and give relay the results.
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