New guy here…apologies for the wall of text, but will do my best to be thorough and detailed.
I’ve got a few questions that I cant seem to answer and I’m looking for insight before throwing more $$ at it. FWIW - yes my account is new but I have spent a lot of time reading all sorts of stuff before making an account.
I’ve got a 3000PSI Simpson powered by a honda 190 as well as a Mi-T-M surface cleaner with the 25025 nozzles (standard I think?).
I have cleaned my driveway using Zep to prewash then the surface cleaner with good - but not great- results. I had to mix the Zep in a watering can because my chemical injector wouldn’t suck it through with the black soap nozzle (not as worried about this).
The surface cleaner did pick up a noticeable amount of dirt and grime but not all of it. It seems there are some little rust spots as well as other areas where I’m sure I’ve spilled oil/brakekleen and just heavy tire marks that are really ground in. Even holding the wand an inch from the concrete has little/no effect on the areas I’ve described (and yes I know not to do this but it’s my driveway so I just wanted to see if it would have any impact at all).
I have a simpson 4400PSI 4GPM machine coming later this week and I do want to try using chlorinating liquid + surfactant as a prewash once I have a more powerful machine to power the surface cleaner and one that will actually run the chemical injector to apply it.
Images are attached. There are some little spots that are from spilling industrial clear coat out there and I know those aren’t going to come off via pressure washing.
My main question is: is my less than ideal outcome more a result of an underpowered machine - or not using the right prewash solution. Or is the concrete about as clean as it will get regardless…? I know concrete is never going to be “perfect” but it seems like these stains could be lifted.
I’m wondering if anyone has any advice as to how best approach this? Should I just wait and try the Zep again - or try finding chlorinating liquid + surfactant. Happy to hear any and all advice/input.
I know the subject of what machine to use is hotly contested, but the simpson 4400/4gpm was a good price and I was able to get it easily where I’m located so that’s what I’m going to go with for the time being.
Yes to both and some other things as well. Grease and oil stains in concrete really require hot water. I’ve done a few jobs with cold water and stout degreaser but heat is always going to produce the best results for stuff like that.
Absolutely, they could. With the right equipment and chemicals.
Call a professional with professional equipment and watch them closely and ask a few questions. Not only will it give you some insight into what kind of “competition” you have in your area, you’ll also have a nice clean driveway.
Chlorine isn’t going to do anything to inorganic stains like oil, grease, etc. Chlorine only works on organic stains. The surfactant may help to allow the correct chemicals to penetrate further into the surface but won’t do much in the way of cleaning by itself–depending on the surfactant.
Eh, plenty of people have started with that–or less–and done just fine. It’ll work until you’re ready to upgrade.
Thank you for the detailed response! I will take all of that info into account going forward. If I may offer a few follow up questions…
a. it seems the need for a quality degreaser is key - especially when cold water will by my only option at the start. I have read many threads and it seems the consensus is that Zep Purple is the most favorable degreaser which is readily available. The local Home Depot also has Zep Citrus degreaser. Should I first try these once my new machine arrives and has a functional downstream injector? or is there another chemical (a “stout degreaser” as you have noted) I might try to source from a restaurant supplier or chemical supplier that is even more powerful?
B. as it relates to downstreaming (using Zep as an example). the directions say to mix a set amount of concentrate/gallon yet many videos and discussions I have seen show users placing the pickup directly into the concentrate and using the soap nozzle to apply. I would assume injecting the concentrate directly will have the most favorable results
c. also related to downstreaming… if placing the siphon tube directly into the concentrate is the move - how would one add surfactant to increase penetration as you have noted?
I am wishfully confident that the new machine with a functional chemical injector (alongside higher GPM) will aid my efforts, but want to pursue the best chemical and process to get it down into those stains and ground in tire mark spots.
Again, thanks for the welcoming and detailed response. I should note that I am hoping to pursue starting a small side business, but only once I have identified a process which will meet the needs of some basic work and deliver effective results (local driveways, small concrete pads, and perhaps the back entrance to a bar a friend of mine owns).
Tried to source one from a local business but Home Depot was a few hundred dollars cheaper than any other option I could find. Generally I dont mind Home Depot - usually easy to get them to help you out should something go wrong. It’s worth noting that home depot also sells a DeWalt unit with the same or almost the same specs that I’ve read is produced by Simpson for a similar cost. I personally opted for the simpson one because I was happy with my current machine.
FWIW, I have another simpson with the honda motor that I’ve used and abused for years racing motocross and its been a great machine. I’m hoping the upgrade will assist me in solving my issues noted in the post and allow me to take on bigger jobs than just washing bikes and trailers on race day. I plan to update the thread once I get the unit and try some different chemicals.
Be sure to look at things such as engine manufacturer and series of engine as well as brand/type of pump when making your purchase. At Home Depot you will likely find a washer with a Honda GX engine to be most expensive, the Honda GC emotional be slightly less, and the engines that don’t clearly state the name are usually a knockoff engine that Simpson/DeWalt/and the likes will typically be the least expensive. Not that any engine brand can guarantee any more production or longevity, but it’s common to see the Honda GX series ad one of the staples in our line of work. Kohler Commands as well as Briggs and Stratton Vanguards are also popular. And even still there are guys who buy the Harbor Freight motors and use them as long as they can. And then you have the various types and brands of pumps…
Thanks @PPWofLexSC and @peakdan. As I read more I’m learning the AAA simpson pump is not highly favored at all amongst our community; if not outright hated. I’m really sold on the idea of a approx $1k unit to expand my side job until the work is routine enough to dive in full time. I wish I were more capable of building out a unit by buying the Honda GX and then a better pump like a CAT or something similar but i’m not very mechanically capable. I’m already running a small utility trailer with buffer tank that would have plenty of room.
I’ve been running a Simpson brand with a Honda 390 and CAT pump for 2 years now. Zero issues so far, but I’m not running it everyday. I’m a part timer that doesn’t do much flatwork, that’s why I went with a portable 4 gpm unit.
the aaa pump is junk. my 4 gmp unit still works only because i put a secondary unloader on it to offer a bypass. Spend a few hundred more upfront for the better unit. I found a like new 5.5 on Facebook MP for 1000$ last year. Lots of guys start and then sell quick when they cant get a good start.
Thanks for the feedback. Unfortunately my options were limited so I’ll be starting with the simpson unit detailed above. I did look into higher-end machines but it simply wasnt in the budget right now (even when looking used…being in a very small town there isnt much of anything on marketplace).
I’m hoping to get started with the simpson and use that time to continue learning. I will not be using it every day so I am hopeful that it will meet my needs at the beginning.
I do plan to update the thread once i actually get the machine and try different chemical but the shipping is a bit behind so I’m stuck in limbo for a bit longer.
I have the same (B) question as you. Ds mixing confuses the crap out of me. I’m also not sure if I just use direct concentrate and let the washer do the mixing for me or make a mix and then ds it?
Both are valid options. It’ll come down to:
1- what your injector pulls. Do the bucket test as previously suggested to determine how much chemical your injector is pulling (i.e. your mix ratio of the injector)
2- what you are trying to clean. Some surfaces need a stronger (hotter) mix to clean well, whether it be due to the type of surface or the amount of buildup on the surface.
If all else fails, stick the injector tube pickup in a bottle of concentrate, and spray on a surface and see if it cleans the surface. If it does instantly, try diluting the concentrate down a bit and spray another area again. Repeat as necessary until you find the balance of cleaning time and chemical consumption that you are happy with. Most of us that downstream could spray undiluted bleach on vinyl siding and see fantastic results as far as cleanliness and dwell time, but we’d be consuming so much bleach that it may not be cost effective.
