Yes that’s true. I am learning that sh is not the answer to everything. Yes it works, but if there is a better alternative I would like to use it.
I finally responded to your other post. It might help.
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Could this be ds’d with oxalic acid using a 10:1 injector out of a bucket? If so how many cups per 5gal?
This is why I ask. Trying to get solid info. I was told potash, and some other chems I can’t recall off the top. It’s being cleaned for staining.
The oxalic is applied to neutralize the PH in the wood after it has been cleaned, stripped etc. As with all wood prep a lot of what you do depends on the type of finish you are going to use. There are numerous types of stain on the market, they don’t all require the same prep.
That’s not that bad. You may be able to just ds straight SH, let it dwell about 10-15 min and rinse. What size machine you using? If 5.5 or lower you should be pulling about 1%. That may do it. would try it first. Would be a quick in and done.
I believe this is an older picture. I haven’t went in person yet. Going this Saturday. I’ll ask what kind of sealant they plan on using. I have a 5gpm. So you don’t think there’s a need for neutralizing? If not I’m pretty stoked to do this. I’ve read so much I almost overwhelmed myself. Also Rick I shouldn’t have to rinse like a fence as far as pressure? I usually go about 1200 on the fence I’m not wanting to have to get close and hit it like a deck or fence.
Take pics when you go, get a couple of closeups too. Let me know. Fine out if they know what kind and color of stain they’re thinking.
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That’s a lot of vertical, just a reminder apply from the bottom up to keep from streaking the wood at the bottom.
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Thank you sir. I read on one thread you were the man when it came to the wood clean/restore.
Lies, all lies. That looks like a really cool project with great before and after potential. If you haven’t done it, I suggest you read through the Deck 101 thread, it has a lot of good info. Keep in mind vertical and horizontal surfaces clean up a little differently because it’s easy to use lower concentrations on a deck and still let dwell time do the work, vertical surfaces everything runs off so patience with this one will be a virtue.
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Sodium metasilicate is best on metal, not wood. Are you sure you weren’t thinking of sodium perborate?
Really if you want to brighten the best on wood is oxalic. High pH (caustics, metasilicate, and even SH) can have an affect on the color of the wood…then you have to use oxalic anyway to calm down the tanins if present.
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There’s a fellow on YouTube who’s a big fan of metasilicate on wood, he does seminars and classes. But he’s not a scientist, but a guy selling chemicals and training.
Everett Abraham’s he owns deck Restoration Plus. He promotes sodium metasilicate and sells the product. I should ask him about the difference and why he would use that for wood instead is regular metasilicate.
Sodium metasilicate, for all intents and purposes, is kind of like caustic soda in solid form but not as harsh as caustic soda. The pH is 12.5 in water. Is it VERY cheap, yes. Is it the best thing to use on wood…I’d still have to go with no because it won’t brighten it or clean it, and due to the high pH you still have the issue of exciting any free tanins that are present (which makes wood darker) and closing the pores of the wood, making it harder to accept stain. Oxalic acid with a touch of surfactant should produce much better results.
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That’s part of his program. First clean/lightly strip with sodium metasilicate and then he sells a proprietary oxalic acid based wood brightener that neutralizes it, opens the pores and brightens the wood. I am going to use his products on a deck this Tuesday though that needs to be restained after.
Of course he does lol.
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It’s like reinventing the wheel over and over. How hard is it to not prewet the deck, cover it in potash, rinse, cover it in Apple vinegar, rinse, leave.
That’s one of the things I’m trying to understand. He insists that prewetting the deck is the most important part as otherwise sh will soak into the wood and ultimately change the color of it. His reasoning in doing so is to work on the surface of the wood. When the pores are full of lots of water beforehand it ensures that you do that. I know that you mentioned in another post you won’t clean a deck if it rained the night before. Do you see any logic in his process?
I do not. I also would not wash a pressure treated deck with bleach.
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