Window cleaner here looking to get into the pressure washing business so I don’t know how to apparaise this.
What would be a good price? Would I need to buy something else?
I am in Texas, looking to do house wash, roof wash, patios, sidewalks and so forth.
You don’t need hot water for the items you listed. Tou do need a different sysyem for roofs. 12v, air, etc. Depends on the price and your budget. Under 4 grand for all is a deal. Buy it, sell rhe burner and get a 7gm pump with the money. Win win
I’m fairly certain that’s not the proper hose reel for that machine. It’s going to fail if it hasn’t already. It’s going to fail anyway since it’s a Reelcraft reel.
I’m also assuming the 53500 means it’s a 5 gpm, 3500 psi unit.
This is what I’d be willing to pay for that machine:
$0 for that reel.
$100 for the hose assuming no leaks and no cracks.
$200 for the GP pump.
$800 for a tiny single axle trailer with a title, $500 no title.
$800 for that engine.
$300 for the tank.
$500 for the burner.
I don’t care about the fuel tanks, guns, nozzles, etc. All consumables and I’m going to replace them all anyway.
$2700-$3000 max. I can build a 5 gpm trailer brand new with a better pump and NO burner for not much more. Like @Innocentbystander said, the burner isn’t necessary for what you want to do, but on occasion it’s nice to have if you get a call for a restaurant or something. But then again you’d probably need to wash 8 restaurants to buy that burner new.
Caveat: He probably wants a lot more than that, but not really worth more than that IMO.
Brand new:
5x8 trailer $900
Honda GX390 with key start and battery $800
Udor 5 gear drive pump $600
2 reels $400
275 gallon IBC tote $80
225’ of hose $270
Plumbing, trigger gun, jrod, etc $300
Unloader $100
$3450.
I should have had you build my trailer! Haha!
You’ll want to replace that blue trigger gun. It looks like some big box special and it’s going to let you down. When you get there to check it out do a quick google search for the pump make and model. It’ll tell you what gpm it is. I wouldn’t go with anything less than 4.0 gpm each, but the hondas should be solid.
Fire them both up. Make sure they sound healthy. Check the oil on the dipstick, etc. Test the pumps by pulling the trigger. If you can get a pressure gauge between now and then great. If not, no big deal. You’ll want to change the pumps out for better ones next year most likely anyway.
If they haven’t been maintained well that’d be the only reason I wouldn’t buy it.
Those reels are a little wobbly with the channel base, but they’ll get you through a year or better.
If this was in my area for $3500 I’d jump on it. You can turn both of those hondas into 5 gpm machines with 4 bolts a few hundred bucks.
Hook up the trailer, turn your stereo off, and drive it back and forth for full rotations of the tires. Listen for squeaky bearings. Crawl underneath the trailer. Look at the springs. Check the lights. Check the tires for cracks.
If both pumps work great. The engines run great. The trailer is servicable. I’d pay $3500 for this trailer over that Alkota trailer. I’d probably ask if they’d take $2800 to get closer to $3k because you’re going to want to change the injectors. Injectors don’t last very long. They’re $20, but it’s always best to have a couple.
If the pumps didn’t work well or at all. I’d give him $2500 and call Dultmeier on my home with it to order two new pumps.
Oh and get bigger straps for the tank. Send me a pic of how they’re hooked to the trailer when you get there.
Is it worth buying an injector rebuild kit? I noticed my injector wouldn’t pull soap the other day and i ended up having to take it off and use something to break the ball loose so that it would move. I am still going to buy another one so I have it but I was just wondering if anyone actually buys these kits.
No. Buy stainless steel injectors. Haven’t replaced ours in a year.
I always talk about how much better of a stainless steel ones are, but people keep buying the brass ones. LOL
Where do you find stainless?
GP proportioning injectors. The ball is ceramic, the Barb is Kevlar or something similar, and the body is stainless steel.
I’m on the road and my phone won’t stop ringing or I’d send you a link. I’m sure I’ve posted it though. Search proportioning injectors and I’m certain I’ve posted a couple pics.
I have a question about the proportioning injectors. Do you still recommend dropping down a size depending on gpm of your machine or do the proportioning tips make up for having to do that? I think you still recommend to because I remember seeing the blue barb in a picture from your enclosed trailer build and he went with 8 gpm washers.
First off I want to say thank you for all your help both on here & on the phone.
I am about to drive out there to take a look at it & give it a test run & if all is well, going to get it.
He won’t budge from the 3500, actually changed the original post to 4000.
Also I have been reading on here & read about the Siamese set up you told me about over the phone. Not sure if it has it but that’s what I plan on doing.
Would I be able to add a hotbox later on if I wanted to?
I use the brass and just buy 48 every year. If the ball sticks just stick your pick down the barb to free it. No need to take it apart. Rebuilds aren’t worth it
You would be able to add a hot box. I apologize I was so tough to get in touch with today. Networking group in the am, 2 jobs across town from each other and thankfully 3 estimates near those areas.
The engines sound great in the videos you sent.
As far as the Siamese kit, I think some vendors sell them. @Steve did you build yours?
