Oh gotcha. I thought you had a motorized version of the D10. That’s what I’m after.
I do. its the same DN10 you don’t change your ball valve you just turn what you got via remote set up takes you 10 min or less.
Oh gotcha.
@GreyGhostPrivateer @fhpressurewashing
So that DN10 marked on the ball valve denotes the size, it’s not the model or make.
Nominal Pipe Size (NPS) is based on inches, and DN (diamètre nominal/nominal diameter) in millimetres.
The inside diameter is 10mm which is pretty much 3/8
If you see anything DN it’s Cheap China junk lol
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Good info, thanks. I mean I don’t think they are 100% junk as they do last for awhile and as far as compact and reliable for the money its about the best option available (right now) . I mean I would like to see it have a smoother/ chamfered transition point and if the internal bore was just a touch larger that would be nice as well. I am working on getting a different valve made, mainly for the end of the hose that would be way lighter and impervious to SH. Its just a pain dealing with other countries though.
Awesome! Do you have a link for that motor?
Does it mean that it has a negligible effect on a 5.5 also? And we are just talking about the amount of water delivery during rinsing correct? It seems that all this is just about selling a product, maybe its just me though.
It’s just another gimmick.
posted one a few up
Don’t know, never tested on a 5.5. Wouldn’t imagine too much, but you can test it in like 2 minutes and then you’ll know. If you share the results then we’ll all know.
Finally had the time to put the bypass together. Been so busy renovating the house and trying to finish in time for family to come up for thanksgiving that the build has been paused for a minute!
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Go ahead and order a new motor and drum for the reel.
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What’s worse the heat from muffler, sh dripping or the whip line on that arrangement, other wise a wise investment of money.
Take a look at the guy with unloader block above ^, mount it too that hydrotek skid behind your hose reel out of the way, does encasing whip lines with 1” line water line just dampen vibration/chaffing? Seems most powerwash store builds have them.
Muffler exhaust is going to be rerouted so no worries on that.
SH won’t drip from the injector if that’s what You are talking about. Hose clamp fixes any issue related to that.
Whip line is fine, if the bypass is curved that hard like any other bypass, the whip line before it is fine
Hydromax, and there is no point having another unloader block there. Already have one for the unloader. [quote=“Nepaguy, post:35, topic:16150, full:true”]
What’s worse the heat from muffler, sh dripping or the whip line on that arrangement, other wise a wise investment of money.
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Why do you say that? Due to the injector ? Or the muffler. Muffler exhaust isn’t going to face that way. Just how it is now because still mid build
Muffler is irrelevant. Bleach is going to drip on your electric motor. Don’t put a hose clamp on it, that’s a disaster when the injector fails. To much weight/pressure on swivel and drum pipe.
I think I understand what you are saying now that bystander has mentioned weight on the swivel.
I have more whip lines and blocks so I can run from the heater outlet to the block, then injector off that, then a whip back to the reel to solve the drip problem on the motor and weight but, now I’m faced with accessibility to turn that ball valve easily. Where it is now, it’s so accessible. Its right there where I need it
