Bashing my head on a wall trying to get my 8 gpm burner to fire. I had just replaced fuel filter, electrodes, and nozzle towards the end of last year prior to adding antigel to the diesel and filling the tanks. It had been cutting in and out earlier this year before no longer firing completely.
Blower motor works and exhausts, replaced nozzle, fuel filter, fuel lines, regaped the electrodes, and replaced the fuel pump. 120 volts is reaching the solenoid. Can’t get the pump to bleed any fuel out of the pump. It dumped the small amount of testing and shipping oil, but nothing after that. The fuel lines are clear and routed correctly. Any tricks to getting it primed? I filled the line from the filter to the pump, but nothing. Reset button on blower motor does nothing and I can see the blower motor does engage the pump.
Hows the inside of your fuel tank look? I few years ago I had a big piece of something get stuck to the bottom of the suction tube and wasn’t allowing it to pull fuel.
I would pull out the electric motor and verify that the fuel pump is spinning freely, it’s entirely possible that the pump is locked up but the motor is still spinning due to the plastic transmission piece being stripped out.
Verified the fuel pump spun prior to install, but it certainly wont hurt tot ske it back out and check. I’m wondering if it has something to do with the screw with the hole and 2 crush washers that attaches the solenoid, that would be the fuel transmission piece between the pump and copper line, but then again, I should still be getting fuel out of the pump bleeder valve, right? I even removed the bleeder plug completely and inserted a hose. Sucked on it as hard as I could to try to pull some fuel to prime, but it seemed like there was resistance. Am I missing some other component? Definitely have been testing with the water running out of the hose.
Take off the power wire going to the fuel pump solenoid shaft ,10 mm, turn on the pressure washer,activate the burner ,set thermostat all the way up ,pull trigger, insert something metal like a screwdriver into that green solenoid hole,it should hold that screwdriver in place,like a magnet. Does it ?
Hey @Hotshot, sounds like a have a little different setup. Yellow circle is the screw with the hole for the fuel to attach the solenoid to the pump and allow fuel to travel from the pump to the brass line above. No clue what the blue circle is. No green holes here that I’m aware of.
Its the blue circle, mine is different, but same theory,We run 12v systems, take that nut off ,that’ll expose the solenoid shaft itself, once nut is off ,that gray power wire will have a circle,thats where the insulated screwdriver test that I gave you previously comes into place, that solenoid is opened and closed by magnet, open gives you fuel,it’ll be magnetized holding the screwdriver in place,closed cuts fuel off ,no magnet effect should create fuel to circulate back to tank. Also blow both your fuel lines back to tank, sometimes the fuel lines are plugged in the tank itself from debis, you’ll see and hear bubbles in the fuel tank. Best of luck. Don’t get discouraged, it happens to all hot water systems sooner or later. The pros to call and get diagnosed over the phone is North Georgia airless, Speak to Johnathan,get a conversation started and order all parts needed from them to keep that relationship strong, their prices are really good. I am not a pro, I’m just parroting what Johnathan told me when I had the same issues, Mine ended up being the thermostat.
Awesome, tyvm. Probably do need to have a spare thermostat on hand too. Always thinking about how thin that wire is. I’ll report back once I’ve been able to tinker tomorrow or Tuesday. Sounds like my issue could very well be the thermostat too.
Thank you for the suggestion, thought about that but I inhaled way more diesel than expected testing the pickup tube lol. Vent caps are too vented… fuel sloshes out constantly. Been trying to find an oem or aftermarket cap that will still vent but help prevent this.
Side note on caps. Picked up 2 different rotomold 5 inch caps as a replacement for my existing cap. Existing cap is baffled. New design is a ball valve. They claim 2 way but they both definitely only relieve pressure on vacuum. Anyone else know a suitable replacement? I keep trying to replace parts as preventative maintenance and finding that newer versions are significantly inferior. I think my rig was built in 2019, so pre covid makes sense.
Quick update, havent had time to address this. Accidentally locked my 4wd in at 80 mph. Front driveshaft blew apart and smashed into the floorboard. Swapped it out, but realized 2 months later that I’ve been towing with the passenger side front diff bracket snapped in half. Transafer case seals leaking too. Just ordered new parts from the junkyard. Major setback. Cherry on top was clipping the front end of a parked tesla with my trailer on my last job before shutting down to fix things.
Also, always wear protection. Had an angry neighor call screaming 4 days into the heat dome earlier this month saying that the nursery said that I killed her new, rare tree transplant with chemicals. She was oddly staring at me for a long time during service at the neighbors house, 30 ft of space inbetween. Luckily my gopro showed her tree was dead before I first fired up the equipment.
