I just got my 3-port clear manifold and can’t wait to finally get it built.
I see dozens of these online and notice some have the check valve on the block, and others are opposite the valve. Does it really matter, I’m just using the SH and water ports, no surfactant (yet).
Also rather than run a 90 degree elbow off the end, can I just use the third port for the outlet to the pump (or does it not make any difference).
Is it too late to return it? @dperez makes a damn fine proportioner that honestly can’t be beat for the price. I’ve been considering selling my $1300 proportioner to pick up one of his. I pulled it off the trailer for the winter and it may not make it back on.
The threaded ports on that block are parallel port and not NPT. It’s from China broski thats their standard pipe thread and not ours. Every Male NPT fitting you thread into that thing will bottom out before it grabs anything!!! There’s a standard of 2-3 turns for NPT. Converting BSP to NPT with tape, pipe dope, a song and a prayer isn’t it! Not on this, not like this! Uugghh
You want one it it’s yours 
. Everything is free on www.pwgadgets.com until my wife wakes up from her nap
It was $99 shipped and plastic. I honestly can’t see metal being a good idea for a manifold block, no offense.
I did go ahead and tentatively put it together, she included some matching plugs. Thankfully nothing NPT has bottomed out.
If it doesn’t work I’ll consider something more ‘appropriate’ but we’ll see.
Well, in that case…slip her a couple melatonin gummies to give me time to convince the boss to loosen her death grip on our wallet lol
I thought the same thing, initially. Then I took into account that we mount these things on trailers, trucks, skids, etc that see all kinds of vibrations. Metal is obviously better for that long term. Then when you consider that metal expands and contracts significantly less than plastic and all of these things sit outside in the heat of the summer and many of us store them outside in the winter. Can’t tell you how many plastic fittings and pieces I’ve replaced in the spring after they’ve cracked in the winter.
As far as chemical resistance goes, the plastic manifold will crack long before any chunk of metal will corrode.
It’s your money and your time but you genuinely can not beat the PW Gadgets mixer for the money. And the quality is right on par with other systems I see guys charging $600+ for. Even more so in my opinion because Dezmar actually put some thought into how these things get mounted. My $1300 proportioner didn’t put five minutes of thought into how it’s mounted. Instead, I spent hours fabbing up my own mounting system. It works but had I known that aspect beforehand I probably wouldn’t have purchased it.
Also, SIGNIFICANTLY less potential leak points on the PW Gadgets mixer than every other one on the market. That’s immense. Especially for a guy like yourself that has had struggles with leaks in the past. Dezmar eliminated every unnecessary connection point with his design.
Again, not trying to push you to anything but, if I could do it over again, I’d buy the PW Gadgets blend manifold and pocket my other $900ish. Only reason I bought the one I did is it has 3/4" ports but that’s not necessary for any 12v system. I intend to go to a air or gas system at some point so my mixer is already set up for that move when the time comes.
Next time it gets above 50f I’ll test this one out. I just didn’t want to buy a whole new mixer as I already had the valves.
Are you going to put a valve on the water line?
I am, just need to order one. Previously I had a ball valve at the tank but I’d like to get the ratios down a little more precise.
Definitely do that. Doesn’t really make sense not to have a valve on each port. I see it all the time on other units but I have no idea why.
I whole heartedly appreciate that. If I didn’t care so much about offering a quality product this would all be so much easier. Obviously I’ll attempt to source a part for a build but 9 times out of 10 I can’t find EXACTLY what I want. I’m a very good researcher and a quick study but it doesn’t help a lick. Simple things become very hard because I always take the path of most resistance. For instance just about every single “builder” of these Blend Stations use injection molded hex nipples made of polypropylene. A lot of times you’ll see another inferior resin used but I wont get into that. I looked at several PP hex nipples from all the top brands and they were all disappointing. They were are all very thin and lacked the thickness I wanted in that part. Why, parts get bumped and things jostle going down the road! Don’t move it around like a loose tooth once it’s assembled or it’s going to crack on you. If it survives initially you can’t expect it won’t crack down the road when the UV rays spend some time on it. Come with me down the hard road, it can’t be that hard right?? Material Engineer check, easy enough you say? Ok, off to purchase some engineering plastic and machine it out. This had to be the hardest option lol. Vycom Corzan® CPVC rod on order. Oh my would you look at that wait time. How much per foot??? When it’s machined it heats up you say so it’s a bit tricky to nail down the tolerances AND wait did you just say the humidity in the machine shop can even change the major/minor diameter varying the parts coming off. Well Dez you do like to find the hardest way of doing things because it had to have the RIGHT tolerances and be a very specific wall thickness. Was it all for nothing? 
May I remind you I very well COULD HAVE spent 86 cents on that part and called it a day. I won’t tell you what that one little itty bitty part set us back on that run! Really crazy I go to that extent on parts all the way down to a friggin plastic nipple!
Thanks, none taken
Like I said if I didn’t already have the valves I would have considered yours. I don’t suppose you just sell the block itself?
In a side note the injector was still working fine when I started hibernating a couple weeks ago.
You go crazy so we don’t have to. And, for that, I thank you lol
No, as it’s specifically made to match the port height of the valves. IE it only “fits” my parts. Matched and Married as they should be. Good to hear you’re still rocking our injector. Here’s to another trouble free year!
@dperez Can i use your manifold for downstreaming if i plug one port and use 1/4 barbs for SH port and surfactant port?
Yes, absolutely. Perhaps you would want to just leave that “leg” closed rather than eliminating it? Just thinking of aesthetics and ability to add or jump over at a later date. If not you’ll have parts in hand to use at a later date. Either way I can assemble it to fits your needs very easily.
