Buffer tank

Finally put eyes on 35 gal tank at tractor supply… with the hudson valve installed it looked like i should be able to get a tad bit under 30 gal. 90% of homes in area could possibly keep up with the 5.5 gpm, but gonna run off buffer to be safe.

I have zero experience with buffer tank, and that 35 gal tank is sized right for being in the enclosed trailer… they had a 65 gal also… the 65 will force me to get creative with the trailer, or possible carry it in the truck which i want to try and avoid.

Any insight/advice would be much appreciated, dont want to have to get the little machine out if i dont have to.

ordered stuff from Pressuretec today… very excited to get it in and start gearing up for the spring. New machine with all the goodies that come along with it.

I keep meaning to take a picture of my old 55 gallon drum buffer, but haven’t had time. I’ll do it tomorrow, in case that’s something you want to do. You can get a drum for $20 on craigslist usually.

As far as the 35 gallon tank, i suppose it will work… although like you said, the hudson float will cause it to not hold a full 35 gallons. All you have to do is get a 1" bulkhead fitting, and drill out a hole on top, or on the lid, maybe. At the bottom, you just hook your fittings out to your pressure washer.

A 1" crush resistant suction hose is generally recommended to run from the buffer tank to your pressure washer, with a filter on the line. Most people use a filter before the buffer tank as well. If you need more help, just ask.

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I have the 35 gallon tank from tractor supply on my setup now with the hudson valve. I put the hudson valve down through the lid and then put my bypass on the opposite side of the tank outlet. My pw is 5.6 gpm and I have never had an issue with running out of water. Like @tireshark said, run a 1 inch non crush hose from the outlet of the tank to an inline filter ( got mine from pressuretek) and then from the filter to the pump. I love the setup.


Good info @thorosafe. Yeah i forgot about the bypass… you will want to run a hose from your washer to the tank… just a normal 3/8" air hose will work, and same thing… drill out top, put like a 1/2" bulkhead this time, and a fitting that you can adapt to 3/8" barb on one end.


Didnt even think about going through the lid… thats a good idea. Thank you.

And yes, bypass will be back to the tank… ill figure all that out as i get to it.

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Just make sure you run your bypass to the opposite side of the buffer tank outlet cause if you dont it could cause air bubbles in your supply feed

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I have the 65 gallon from Tractor Supply in my 6x10 enclosed trailer. I have plenty of room. They are probably close to same foot print as 35 gallon.


Nope 35 is half the space… I have both in my 5 x 10 residential trailer…

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I was worried about the size too but now I want a bigger tank. I have a 4 gpm and 5.6 gpm. I want to replace the 4 gpm with an 8 gpm and I don’t think 65 gallon will work with 2 machines running of same buffer. Most spigots around here put out more than enough for my 5.6 without needing a buffer. Add an 8 and 5.6 and I don’t think my 65 gallon buffer can keep up with both machines going.

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I’m looking at two vertical tanks for an enclosed or box truck build. I have that same 35 gal tank for my chem tank and it’s too big of a footprint for my liking.

Yeah i can understand that… i have been looking for 55 gal drum to use, but all are closed top that are local.

Im gonna have to redo some of my trailer to fit new machine and tank in… im gonna hold off on tank u til i see how much room i have.

Do you have anywhere online that sells vertical tanks that arent $150+ for shipping alone?

There are a ton of discount tank websites and they all have distributors they ship from. If you can find one within an hour or two of you you can pick them up for free. Check with Tractor Supply too. They’ll typically order in what you want and it’s no big deal for them to add another tank to the already huge deliveries they get weekly anyway.

Cut a square out of the top to put your arm through, then duct tape over the hole. That + $5 worth of fittings from HD will do it. Obviously not as good as a tank you can buy, but it’s way cheaper if you are tight on cash.

I have a job to do this morning, when i get back i’ll post some pictures.

@tireshark. Please do, if anything just to get an idea. Always want to save money, but quality is important for me. One man show, i cant afford to have stuff fail and come back later.

@squidskc. Didnt event think to check tractor supply. They have 65 gal for $179. And might be a stupid question, but with the slightly concaved top on the vertical tanks, will the hudson valve still function ok? I have never used a float valve of anykind.

I’m sure the Hudson float valve will work just fine even at a slight angle.

Also, I’m apparently the only person on the forum who has to replace Hudsons twice a year. My advice with Hudsons are they’re cheap, they work until they don’t and that’s usually around 6 months for me, so carry two.

Put the Hudson thru the lid

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Good thinking.

If drilling out the lid for the float valve, where is the tank vented? Is that a problem without a vent? What size and type vent is needed?

Between holes for bypass lines and lid not air tight I’ve never had a problem with the tank creating suction