Anyone use this stain brush?

Didn’t want to put the name of the brush in the title, not advertising. I did search here and read about 10 threads but no mention of it. Watched some videos of it being used, read reviews, compared it another brand or two. I like the fact that it is angled and I already own a ton of paint poles. Looking for any feedback. I am starting to get my list ready and I’m looking at brushes now. still have to kneel to cut in. I’m thinking this might get the gaps between boards better, but don’t know. Brush looks thick, like it would hold some product, so not going back to the bucket as often would be more efficient. don’t know if it would be smooth enough for back brushing.

Any feedback would be appreciated.

If you’re going to stain you really need to invest in an airless sprayer. It’s the only way you’ll be able to make decent money on most jobs. Staining by hand just takes way too long. Depending on the stain you might need to back brush but you don’t need any special brush. Spraying will hit the gaps or sides of the boards.

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thanks, I’ve kinda narrowed down the graco’s that I would be interested in, was looking at brushes right now. I saw some water based stain applied to a wet deck (PT pine) with a brush, which turned out well. That was slicker than cat poop on a lineolium floor. Brushing would be the way to go with that product in my mind, as I think the sprayer wouldn’t work as well on a wet surface. Not 100% on that, but the brush worked.

Plus it is good idea to have a backup, in case stuff goes sideways. It always goes sideways. Mr. Murphy and I have a very close relationship, he is almost family.

Graco are the way to go.

A graco 390 will do anything you ever need, it’s the entry level contractor model usually $799 on probuy.

You can also buy the graco entry level ones… but ide refrain. They just aren’t built for heavy duty contractor use. Not that you can’t use them… but it’s the Simpson 4gpm of the sprayer world

Never used that exact brush, but one like it. They work ok but can leave brush marks if you aren’t careful.

Thanks for the recommendation, it almost like you work for a big paint store. :wink:

we had those things running nonstop spraying and back rolling sheetrock. From one new house to the next, that contractor made bank. Funny he was always yelling about how we weren’t going fast enough, greed I guess. I didn’t think I would need a 390, thought a prox19 might suffice, but I will take your suggestion under advisement heavily weighted.

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Of course I dont work for a huge paint store! Or get paid by the hour… poorly lol, you buy whatever you are comfortable with. :wink:

My only advice is go pick up a 15 , 17 or a 19, then go pick up a 390 or a titan 400… there’s no comparison in how they are made. Give them a call and see how many recommend gallons a day they recommend for those small pumps some of them are only 2 or 3 gallons a day! They look like a real pump and have GRACO on the side but they are not going to be a good long term investment if your going to make a living using them.

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Yes I use that exact brush on small decks. Sometimes faster using that then spending time putting plastic on the house to use the airless. I agree with Caleb in this video, doesn’t hold near as much stain as I had hoped. Gets the cracks decent, but only if there is a good amount of stain in the brush, otherwise really have to work the bristles in there.

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@Greenman since we are talking about brushes and you clearly have experience with them do you mind giving us a good better best for paint and stain

Thank you. I was watching some of his videos yesterday and I didn’t see this one. Figures. Did about 4-5 hours of different research yesterday before I posted this question. Thanks a lot.

After watching the video I am still trying to figure out where he learned to use a bucket smaller than the brush for staining, looks like a plastic ice cream container or something. I did not care for his “back dragging” or scraping motion across the edge of the bucket, I just kept thinking where are all the droplets going. I’ve always used a screen in a 5 or a 5 partially full and used the inside of the bucket to work out excess. I know he can slop on oil and not worry about lapmarks and brush strokes.

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EDIT: The below was me totally misunderstanding your question, I blame it on lack of coffee. Since I typed it I’ll still post it in case some bit is helpful. I’ll include brushes at the bottom. END EDIT:

That’s a very complicated question… the answer is both simple and complex. Akin to how do you put out a fire. You spray water on it right?..well sometimes.

Brands: I totally dont :wink: work for one of the bigger paint distributors… I’ll say this. So long as you stick to a bigger company and buy the quality products (EVERY manufacturer makes some products that are crap) then you should be ok. Porter paints (Now owned by ppg), Sherwin Williams, Benjamin Moore, all have good reputations in the industry, and more importantly will stand behind what they sell in the case there is an issue. I’m not saying that you cant get a quality product or good service from a mail order place, but you cant go in for coffee, BS with the tubby long haired guy behind the counter, and pick up another 5 gals at 6pm on a friday to finish up the job because you way under estimated the product you were going to meed.

Stains: Talking about stains is like talking about religion, it can get heated, and in the end no ones minds get changed. For decks I really like the look of the oil based toners, they stink, are a fire hazard if you dont handle your trash properly, but they can make a deck glow. And in my opinion dont lap nearly so bad or raise wood grain like the water based. The water based are low VOC are available in a ton of colors, and some can even be put on damp wood (I still dont recommend that personally give a deck 2 or 3 days to dry). Know that there are different finishes designed for vertical and horizontal surfaces. My preferred product for a pine fence is blended with a form of polyurethane and will look good and last a long time…ON A FENCE, you DO NOT want to use it for foot traffic on a deck, decks have their own coatings. That are more flexible.

Paint: in this field for exterior work latex is king and what you will run into 99% of the time unless your working on 1960s and before houses. If you run into a paint you aren’t sure of you can do a solvent resistance test. Take denatured alcohol (or NON ACETONE) Fingernail polish remover, saturate a cotton ball and rub an out of the way clean section of paint, scrub a spot the size of a quarter for 30 seconds, if you take paint off the surface or you get the color of the paint on your cotton ball,then most likely you are dealing with latex. If it doesn’t come off then it’s probably oil or one of the high tech coatings like kynar or some resin based coatings (Refer question like that to your paint rep who you can get as a professional at places like Sherwin, PPG, … ) you are more likely to run into oil or speciality coatings on metal, like roofing, sheet steel, window frames, some gutters. On wood or god forbid painted vinyl ( Seriously stay the F away from painted vinyl, and do not let your wife talk you into painting yours) you are almost positive to be dealing with latex.

EDIT: Now to answer your real question…

Pretty simple Buy Purdy, Wooster, Corona for latex paint and other water based coatings a medium stiff nylon polyester blend brush will do 90 percent of what you need. If you need a super smooth finish on something pick up a purdy nylox it’s super soft and I dont know if you could make it leave brush Marks. For oil I only use Natural bristles brushes, Purdy, Wooster, Corona all sell great natural bristles and will all do the job. For decks wider and thicker is better, and again if using oil stain the natural bristles will hold more and leave a better look BUT you have to take care of them.
Anything I can clarify shoot me a msg.

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A bucket grid is a life changing 4$ expenditure… I haven’t used a paint tray in 15 years.

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SInce your replying and we are talking about screens, let me get your feedback. I have always preferred this type of screen with standoffs (not this specific model) https://www.amazon.com/Metal-Bucket-Screen-Gallon-Paint/dp/B00BHTV8Y0/ref=sr_1_10?keywords=paint+screen+for+5+gallon+bucket&qid=1575297784&sr=8-10
vs the open ended ones with no standoff as they seem to bend/twist easier. https://www.amazon.com/Wooster-Brush-F0011-Acme-Gallon/dp/B0064M54TU/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=paint+screen+for+5+gallon+bucket&qid=1575297784&sr=8-6

I know that paint/stain/sealer can build on the solid piece on the bottom, but a little prevention by cleaning goes a long way. What are your thoughts? I just did a quick amazon search for pics, not talking about these specific brands. The only real problem I have experienced with the others is when we drop a screen in a bucket then pull it out at the next job and it is rusting right away (probably bought el cheapos for the job).

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The 4 sided are the only way to go, they are so cheap get a few one for oil based stain, one for latex stain , and one each for water and oil based paint… they last a long time but if you foul one up dont stress pitch it and buy another. You can spend 7 bucks worth of solvent cleaning up a 4 or 5 dollar item…

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I’m so glad you said that. Now I’m gonna blame you for not doing that, she’s been on me to look into painting the vinyl house.
BTW ,You know your painting world man. Good info my friend.

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I’m totally ok with taking the blame, Pissing off the ladies is actually a speciality of mine! Painting vinyl is one of those just because you CAN doesn’t mean you SHOULD situations. You take a zero maintenance surface and turn it into a maintenance surface. You absolutely can not paint it any darker than it currently is, and even then you can have buckling, loss of adhesion, wear points… it’s just not worth it.

As for knowing paint, I’m no expert, but after 13 years and more continuing education than I can add up, ive learned a bit about it lol.

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@Dirtyboy Amazon dropped price on the Deck Boss brush. Not sure if it is for Cyber Monday or not.

Great advice @Greenman,
I have a little tip to make life a little easier when sealing or staining large areas , I have used a flat trolley to hold paint tray/bucket which allows me to always have it close to work area and it’s so easy to reposition as I move along.
No more bending over to pick up bucket just roll it .

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One of my customers that just does deck staining actually uses industrial mop buckets to work out of for that exact reason… ide be scared I would tip the thing over!