Aluminum brightener for stains/rust

What ratios do you guys use with aluminum brightener for stains and rust? I have a gallon left over and since I see posts on here about how well it works, I want to try it out. It says 15:1 for its normal use, but what about using it on things other than aluminum? Lighter, stronger, or what they recommend? I’m assuming rust stains in concrete need to be strong, but how strong? I plan on doing some testing around my house, but was hoping to get a little direction to start.

Vinyl fallout staining - ?
Black streaks from gutter runoff - ?
Vinyl rust stains - ?
Concrete rust stains - ?

Did some experimenting last night. Mixing 15:1 like the bottle said will not touch rust stains. So, I tried 1:1 on a couple different spots. The first was on my driveway where I have some light rust stains. While it did remove the rust, it also turned the spot a whitish color. So, I etched the concrete, but it probably wouldn’t have been so noticeable if I pressure washed it right away. Since I was just testing, I didn’t have much in the way of rinsing lined up. I basically put it on, dwelled a few minutes, brushed and poured water on it to rinse. It doesn’t look bad, but it’s noticeable. I’ll try 4:1 and do the whole area and blend it in. Actually rinsing well this time.

On my white trim, I have a spot where there was a metal hook screwed in and it left a rust stain that runs down about 2’. It’s been there since I bought the house 7 years ago. I was amazed and how this stuff just made it disappear in about 20 seconds. Sprayed it on and just watched it disappear from the bottom up to the worst part. I hit the hook itself one more time, and within a minute it looked like brand new. Best part is, it doesn’t look like it did anything to the paint or the siding that I got some overspray on.

I’ll keep experimenting before trying it on any customer’s homes, but for rust on trim and siding, it looks like a great alternative to BARC or OX. Just not sure about using on concrete yet. It was $29 for a gallon and it only took about 3-4 sprays mixed 1:1, so this gallon will last a while.

1:1 works best for me. Instantly melts off of vinyl, makes brick and mortar brighten up usually by the second application, and neutralizes rust on concrete usually within about two minutes. Dilute too much and I might as well toss it in the trash.

Do you have any issues with it leaving the concrete white? Is it as simple as I should have rinsed sooner and with pressure? Thanks

You have to do the whole thing or at least joint to joint in my experience

Make sure you follow the precautions on the bottle, wear gloves, and if you ever try another brand make sure you read their bottle too. Some aluminum brighteners have hydroflouric in them and that stuff is pretty scary.

It will cause glass to pit, it can turn stainless steel this weird dark color, and then there’s this statement about it:
If you spill it on your skin, it attacks your nerves. This causes loss of feeling, so you might not know you’ve been burned until a day or more after exposure. In other cases, you’ll feel excruciating pain, but won’t be able to see any visible evidence of an injury until later.

The acid doesn’t stop at the skin. It enters the bloodstream and reacts with bones. The [fluorine] ion binds to calcium. If enough gets into your bloodstream, the disruption of calcium metabolism can stop your heart. If you don’t die, you can suffer permanent tissue damage, including bone loss and persistent pain.

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Dang, that is no joke!

What I bought has Phosphoric acid. The MSDS doesn’t sound like its too dangerous. Gloves are recommended, but not required.

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Oh no! It WILL brighten that concrete. I attempt to feather in the transition from old concrete to new brighter concrete, but warn the customer of this effect or using roller (18” on a pole) roll entire section or drive with oxalic to brighten it all.

I didn’t realize that Hydroflouric acid wasn’t part of your wheel brightener. I don’t know anything about that.

Stuff I use has hydroflouric, but I use more for mud than rust but only costs$7/gal. I use around aluminum windows every day with no problems as long as you rinse fairly quickly. Don’t want it to dry for sure.
@Jake_Lambert - thanks, now I know what’s wrong with me. I get that crap on me all the time when spraying something up high. Does make your face tingle.


Racer, what do you buy for only $7? Are you mixing it 1:1, or lighter since its mostly for mud? I know for rust everyone says BARC is the best, but the way this stuff made a 7+ year old rust stain on my siding disappear within seconds shocked me. If I can get the same stuff for $7 / gal that would be perfect.


I mainly use for mud or reddish dust that’s hardened on houses around here. The whole area is red clay, so a lot of homes have where it’s rained and splattered up on the foundations and siding before landscaping got put in. Also works well on fallout and oxidation. Mr Sparkle was amazed when he came down here. They don’t ship it. I don’t run into rust all that much, use f9 for it most the time, but this stuff works ok for little spots.

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They don’t ship what @Racer ?

Aluminum brightener I use.

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Hydrofluoric acid is controlled pretty good , UPS OR FEDEX won’t handle it but we get in drums of it from central transport for $2.14 a gallon. If you need some @Racer just holler.

I don’t think Rick wants us coming to SC and buying up his supply lol

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Do you have to order a drum at a time? I haven’t been able to find any around here.

You can get one quicksilver concentrate from Hydrochem which will make about 20-30 gallons

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Come on down, they’ve got plenty.

Socar Chemical Acids -

This is a superior aluminum cleaner and brightner that removes rust and cleans film from chrome to give a hand “polished” gleam to wire wheels, cleans mud and rust stains from concrete or vinyl siding.
TARGET AREAS: Wire wheels, aluminum or alloy wheels, will not harm coating,
concrete mud and rust stains.

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Weak percentages on that acid.

That’s why its just a tingle :grinning_face_with_smiling_eyes: