Because itās faster and safer on the landscaping. thereās no reason to use a 12 volt on vinyl. 12 volt is for roofs, brick, anything that requires a heavy mixture. normal house washing is .6 to. 75 percent. youāre going to get sued if you keep doing it like youāre doing it
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U need to reach out to some local washers and work for free or pay them to learn. How munch surfactant have u been adding to ur mix and what kind do u use? Have u messed up anything yet windows,doors, landscaping? We clean colleges with dirty brick and stucco with that process at times. Canāt imagine someone cleaning houses like that with a 3% mix.
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I have to use 4 nozzles with the junk on these gutters. 40 degree HP fan also works well for stubborn dirt that SH has no effect on.
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Because like in my case, I can rinse the plants with water, hit a button around my neck and soap comes on in 16 seconds, hose everything down then turn it off and rinseā¦all with the same hose.
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Itās certainly can cone in handy. I use the hp nozzles to speed up flatwork rinsing for sure. 4gpm doesnt do all too well on the ballvalve rinse. Ive been using the 4gpm all the time tho. The 8 or 9gpm(stats differ) should be setup soon.
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Because itās this easy, especially when you put a cheap 3 way valve inline to your injector from your chem tank.
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Here is the thingā¦Sure, you can soap with a 12v and rinse with your PW. I will do that exact thing when I have a bad stucco house that I need a hotter mix on or some bad brick that needs a hotter mix. But its definitely not the fastest or most efficient process by any means. And THAT is what everyone is trying to tell you, is that its not very efficient and not as fast as downsteaming. Honestly, to each his own. Obviously your not looking to change so if that is the way you want to do it, then by all means its your business so go for it. However, you said your still hitting the house with a 1.5% mix and that will eventually cause you some issues. Iāve already seen other post where you mention windows and leaving them cloudy (or whatever the post said exactly) so your already having issues. Leave that 3% or 1.5% mix on those windows and you will more issues. Everyone is only trying to help you and show you a more efficient process. But like I said, its your business so by all means do what you are obviously going to do anyway. But I would seriously think about dialing back your mix.
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Everyone here is for downstreaming because it is the easiest, fastest, cheapest, and simply the best method for house washing. I donāt quite understand why you would want to pull 2 hoses, and run 2 pieces of equipment to do the job of one. Not to mention that 12v pumps have a very limited lifespan. The donāt have any cooling for the motor, and the way your talking about using yours, you better have at least one spare pump on the truck. You are using 2 hoses, 2 pumps, 2 reels
(I assume), 2 guns, to do something that can be done with one. Maybe once you start replacing worn/failed equipment you will understand. I donāt understand the 12v house wash at all, seems silly to me to pull 2 hoses, them have to rinse your 12v pump out every day for nothing. Save your 12v system to do things you CANT DO with downstreaming. Roofs, brick, stucco, concrete post treat, and get 2-3 decent DS injectors, the donāt last forever, but they ar $20. As far as the rinsing tip, go to Pressure tek, order a JROD for your GPM. I believe itās 050 for 8 GPM, but you donāt even have to know, just order it for 8gpm. This will give you 2 awesome fan tips, a decent shooter tip, and a medium pressure to blast gutters with. Easy. Also, 1.5% is pretty much double what you need for 90% of all vinyl houses.
@Innocentbystander gave you everything you needed already, take his advice.
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I am changing my house wash method to downstreaming and will be ordering the parts from pressuretek.
Questions on what to order onlineā¦
1- What is the most recommended 10-1 injector?
2. A. Buy the jrod (4 tip) piece at 2550 0050
OR
B. Buy the 2550 0050 pieces separate
3. Will this jrod get me to higher heights or will I need to buy a separate shooter tip?
4. Anything else left to buy?
After reading more about DS Iāll need a remote, to take a hike to the rig(which to me almost seems out of the question to need to slug back and forth that often), or simply put on a higher pressure nozzle.
Or Xjetā¦ I would probably rather lug a 5 gallon bucket as opposed to walking back to the truck repeated times (until I get a remote)
I canāt express my gratitude to all you guys for taking the time to respond and get me on track Pressure Washing. Thank You
Best injector is the GP high draw around $15 and change on pressure tek get the size you need to fit your gpm @spaceclean . 6ā of 1/4 poly line or better , 1/2 PVC pipe with a notch cut in the end to fit in your chem tank to keep your chem line from floating up. More QC and plugs to plumb In your DS. All the jrod stuff i donāt know, Iām not a house washer. More black tips ,youāll shot some off into no finding it landā¦ 1/4 plastic ball valve so you can close off your DS when rinsing at low pressure and not suck air.
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If I remember reading correctly, you are running an 8gpm machine so you will want to downsize your injector to pull more. I run a 2.1 (for 3-5gpm) on mine and still not getting 10:1 but its good enough. I also pull straight SH from my chem tank. You will get good height using your 8gpm and I havenāt really needed a shooter nozzle. I have the Jrod set up from pressure tek, but only use the two soap nozzles for washing. I do use the rinse nozzles for edging concrete and stuff, but only the soap nozzles for actual washing. The rinse nozzles are a little more pressure than you will want to put on a house. If your using a dedicated chem tank, just put a 1/4ā 3 way poly valve inline with your injector hose with one end going to your chem tank and the other to your buffer tank and cut your soap on and off with the 3 way. That way your pulling water when your not pulling soap. If that makes sense. I think you will find it to be much more efficient.
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Buy the 2.1 injector and you donāt have to mix anything when you run it with an 8 gpm machine. Make sure to get 2 or 3 of them, just to have a backup. A 1/4ā 3 way poly ball valve in between the injector and chem tank is a good idea too. You can switch the valve to pull water from your tank instead of chems for rinsing.
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Interesting on the 3 way ball valve ,1 to chem 1 to buffer tank to rinse and draw water when yall rinsing a house. I have a 3 way as well but run 2 chems all day and have to take both out and rinse in a 5ver of fresh water, and I never have to rinse under low pressure.
That is not really how that works
@Innocentbystander itās exactly how it works for me. Takes a few mins for algae to fully disappear when pulling from a fresh batch. Works with up to at least 250ā of hose.
I get that it works for you the point is is that down streaming 12.5 bleach without diluting or metering is going to get someone in a bind killing plants or vegetation
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I run an 8gpm with 200ā of hose and a 2.1 injector and I still mix 3gal SH to 2gal H20 with a splash of surfactant. Works like a charm. The only time I ever have to run straight SH is for gutters that are BLACK. Somehow, I completely missed @squidskcās thread on the metering injectors so Iāll probably go that route for next season after I rework my trailer configuration but for now Iām going to keep on rocking.
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Well, going on 15 years, and not one plant has died yet. I dunno, maybe my 2.1ās pull different than yours. Mix any water in the sh, and youāre either waiting half a day for it to work, or putting on several applications of mix. Iāve tried, and straight sh works the best for mine. My machines also run closer to 9 gpm when using a soap/rinse nozzle. If yours run closer to 7, I could see them pulling too hot a mix. When I ran 4-5 gpm, 50/50 and a 2.1 were spot on.
