3 way electric ball valve

I’ll throw this into the mix:

Some pools have electric Jandy valves, which are connected to a little computer on the wall by the pump, fancy ones can be controlled on your phone.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00546C5Q2/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1524176410&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=jandy+2440+valve&dpPl=1&dpID=51agz1su01L&ref=plSrch

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Never mind was going to mention two single valves on one remote but saw your post right below that you have given up on remotes haha. I’m making a similiar setup right now with two valves running off one remote into a T.

send me what you come up with. I’m always open to ideas

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Exactly! Did you ever try it? I found a manufacturer of electric high pressure ball valves who sent me models to look at but the distributor never got back to me. Haven’t pursued it since been focusing on other upgrades but about there now wanting to complete it. A simple 12v 3/8” high pressure electric ball valve that can be connected to remote control is the only thing I need. I’ll let you know if I can get one that works. Would pay $500 for something like that, will pay for itself in half a season with all the damn walking back and forth to the truck!

Why a bypass instead of just turning soap off or having injector draw water? The good thing about a remote 3 way that switches from soap to water is it flushes your injector while rinsing. Are you just hoping for a little more flow for rinsing if using a
bypass?

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Exactly. Ultimately I will have two 55 gallon tanks, one a dedicated bleach tank and the other for a mixing tank. I am adding one small 3-7 gallon tank for the neutralizer mix and all connected with 3 way ball valves. At the end of each job will turn the 3 ways to run final wash through everything to flush out.

That bypass is killer though and having it on remote control would be epic.

I can probably figure something out but will need to find a large enough 3 way valve motor that can turn a 3/8" ball valve. They don’t turn super easy. I bet if we used a motor off of like a 1 1/2" to 2" valve that would be strong enough. My local farm store has the but they’re like $250. I’m sure they sell the replacement motor for cheaper. If you mail me a 12v valve motor I’ll see what I can do. Worst case you’re out some cash on it but I’d mail you back the motor. I have everything else to experiment with. When I get home this evening I’ll look at different valves motors to see which I think will work best. Winter is about here and I like tinkering.

They turn a lot easier if you use a flow unloader. I noticed a huge difference on my bypass valve after I installed the k5.

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I need to get a flow unloader. Season is close to being over so will probably just wait for next year. I’m still swamped and calls keep coming in though. Highs in the low 50’s starting Saturday. Not looking forward to the colder temps until I’m done washing.

Anyways, what size valve motor do you think would work to turn it? Obviously the bigger the better but maybe one off a 1" will do the trick? I’ve noticed most 12v valve motors are the same for 3/4", 1/2", 3/7", and even 1/4" valves. I’m not sure which size valve jumps up to a bigger motor. Maybe a 1" valve motor is the same as a 2" valve motor. That might save a few bucks. I’ll have to do some research.

I found a manufacturer who makes the entire unit, 12v electric 3000 psi ball valve. He sent me some diagrams here: Dropbox - Electric Ball valves - Simplify your life

He told me he reached out to one of his distributors and they were going to call me about buying one but they never did. I also did not pursue it as I had so much other stuff to buy and upgrade at the time. This is next on my list now! just ordered a titan electric rewind and second 55 gal tank for mixing and the recovery system. Damn near have the truck completed! Just gonna be one truck for a year or so I don’t want to race into this business but going to make this one truck as awesome and efficient as possible. For me time is my weakest link and anything I can do to speed up work is being invested in!

I think what they (dynaquip) are offering is an all in one unit that can just replace the standard bypass valve, all stainless. what do you think about the attachments in the link above?

I don’t think those are ball valves but rather solenoid valves. Solenoid valves usually take continuous power to keep them open or closed which means they get hot. Guys on here have used solenoid valves for remote downstream injectors and they didn’t last long. Although, they were cheaper solenoids. The one you’re talking about might be a lot better quality or might even be different all together. It might also stay cooler with water running through the valve. You would just have to make sure you wire it “normally closed” so it opens when it engages so water flows through and hopefully cools it. I’m not sure if the cool temperature of the water would transfer from the valve up to the solenoid though.

I will ask them about that. I think this industry is on the edge of major improvements and upgrades to make our life easier. I actually really enjoy the work, and am very big into R&D. I will roll with you guys on this until we find more solutions. Not knocking the systems out there, I can tell lots of time and energy have been spent on the existing remote systems and they look awesome. I just have this new 8gpm machine and want to squeeze every ounce of it!

Update here. Got a price for the all electric ball valve with the actuator. It’s $690. On another note I realized that using a 3-5 gpm nozzle in an 8gpm machine pretty much defeats the purpose of having 8gpm unless your rinsing. It hit me that I should use the 8gpm nozzle in the ds injector and then run straight sh (as I always did even with the 3-5 gpm nozzle, usually) but if I need more soap to l go between 50/50 up to pure sh but with the pump on. Will fly thru the mix tank (but it can hold 55 gal now so who cares) but will also be covering same amount of square footage just twice as fast.

So here’s the deal. I noticed that when using the 8gpm nozzle turning the bypass on to rinse seemed to have a very minor loss in gpm. Would you guys agree? I ran out of time today to do a fill test with bypass on and off with ds pulling water but if it’s real minor I am starting to think that I should just go with the existing remote kit we have been talking about. I do like the idea of being able to flush the injector, pump and lines many times per day. Seems that it would let the equipment last longer as well.

So my question is, does anyone feel a difference between soaping and rinsing leaving the bypass out of it? Or does turning the bypass on still make a difference?

A lot of people don’t even use an injector bypass. I believe Rick @Racer said it mainly makes a difference for surface cleaning. Some have said it makes no difference at all. I think he did a test and posted his results awhile back. I’ll try and find the thread. I don’t see it making that big of a difference just rinsing a house but I currently don’t use one. I think @Infinity uses one too.

Yeah, I’ve got one.

Tbh, the main reason I use it, is because the lever is easier to turn on the bigger ball valve. I notice maybe a 2 or 3% improvement in flow (small enough difference, that it could just be the placebo effect). I don’t really have mine plumbed for maximum flow, though. I have it setup the same as most suppliers who sell them. If you put the ball valve in-line, and the injector on the whip, I hear it does make more of a difference. But then your injector might not pull quite as good.

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