It’s my understanding that there are two sub-categories for Oil/Water based sealers. Which would be penetrating and topical (film-forming). It is also my understanding that depending on the finish you are going after, may determine which type you may need to use.
Such as… most penetrating are going to be clear, natural, matte finishes. While your topical sealers will be wet-look, satin, gloss, etc.
From the fil-forming products I have used I learned that you can apply multiple coats of topical sealers to achieve the desired sheen.
Lastly, from what I have been told by local concrete contractors, hardscaping supply companies, and even some painting contractors is that oil based is superior in terms of longevity, but still requires maintenance intervals.
I agree with your point, regarding moisture layer, I know the guys down in Florida despise oil-based products for that reason, but I don’t think water-based holds up to the cold temps as well.
Again, I am by no-means an expert on this stuff, I just have been trying pretty hard the last 2 years to make this a primary service for my business. So if there is anything that you disagree with or that I have backwards, please let me know
Sorry for the delays in response, I work as a snowmaker at our local mountain, and it has been sub-20 degree nights for the last 2 weeks, so we have been busy lol.
I use V-Seal 101/102 which is a penetrating water based, I don’t see how any amount of stripping or surface cleaning will do anything as it becomes a part of the concrete
They are a different beast since you’re not trying to remove the “film” since there is none.
If it’s just a problem of too much sealer, depending on how bad it is, I usually recommend starting with hot water and pressure. That’s the easiest fix but it doesn’t always work. After that it’s best to call the manufacturer and see what product they recommend for removing it.
But if you need to remove it all, just start with calling the manufacturer.
Around me, at least, the stores that sell good sealers are geared towards concrete pouring–so they have the rebar, forms, etc. so their knowledge on sealers is not the greatest. It’s not a knock on them. They cater to their primary customer–companies pouring concrete.
And I’m sure there’s a worker or two who knows the sealers really well. But my experience is that it’s hit or miss. And in my earlier days, I was sent in the wrong direction more than once. Thus, my recommendation is to call the manufacturer.
I’m not an expert either, but I agree with most of what you said… except for this point, which I still believe is backwards.
Water-based products use water as a carrier to deliver silanes and siloxanes into the concrete. As the water evaporates, these compounds chemically bond within the concrete, creating a durable hydrophobic barrier beneath the surface. This barrier effectively seals the concrete on all sides, blocking moisture from entering through the top, bottom, or sides. With no internal moisture present, there’s nothing to freeze, expand, and cause cracks or damage.
In contrast, a topical film creates only a surface layer of protection. While this is effective for blocking moisture from above, it doesn’t address the issue of moisture absorption from below or the sides (which is where it comes from during a freeze/thaw cycle). Concrete is highly porous, and any unsealed areas in contact with the ground can draw in water from surrounding oversaturated soil. Once inside, this trapped moisture has no easy escape route because the top surface has been essentially blocked, and the surrounding areas remain waterlogged. If the trapped moisture doesn’t evaporate before the next freeze, it will expand as it freezes, potentially causing cracks or other damage to the concrete.
Glad you added. I do a fair amount of it, don’t know why I haven’t thought to add. I use the polyseal sand. Never use the stuff from the BB stores unless you want the white haze look, lol.
I don’t see how a penetrating sealer would seal the paver, concrete, etc. on “all sides” it is only going to penetrate below the surface, not all the way through the material. The bottom of the slab is still going to absorb moisture. Proper drainage and base construction will be the slabs best friend.
With that being said, the only difference in solvent vs water based sealers is the evaporating delivery. Water based is going to be water and alcohol, solvent is going to be VOCs like Toluene, Acetone, Xylene, etc. Similar to latex vs oil based paint. they each have their pros and cons. They both still leave solids behind, I just think the man-made “toxic” chemicals do a better job than most at getting this goods down into the pores. It is also going to be more resistant to staining from oils, residues, and other chemicals or substances that could be spilled on it.
I think back in the day solvent based had the upper hand until the water based products technology improved. Apparently the old eco-friendly products did not fair well. Also, there is going to be solvent/oil based products that may be cheaper and don’t fair well in certain conditions.
When it comes to freeze-thaw cycles specifically, penetrating sealers provide superior performance. An evaluation by the Iowa State University Institute of Transportation, supported by the Iowa Highway Research Board (page 10) presents research on this topic. Removing marketing claims and contractor anecdotes, almost all the data-driven findings I’ve seen show that penetrating sealers outperform film-forming sealers in freeze-thaw conditions. Penetrating sealers protect more deeply, addressing internal moisture, and are more breathable than topical sealers so any moisture that does form internally has a better chance to escape. Do with that info what you wish.
Interesting read, thanks for sharing. Curious if you have ever found any data to speak to water vs solvent based?
We’re on the same page regarding penetrative sealers being the best for waterproofing and holding up to freeze/thaw. But, penetrating sealers are not the best for every application.
Example: If a customer has a stamped concrete, or colored paver patio. I am going to go with a topical sealer, probably acrylic. Reason being is that these sealers will generally enhance the staining, colors, patterns, etc. A topical sealer for pavers will also assist in “locking in” the joints.
I guess in my situation (And I should have stated this previously) I am typically sealing stamped work or pavers. Which is probably why I tend to run with solvent-based topical sealers. Color-enhancing and more resistant compared to water-based, or low-VOC topicals.
If it is just regular old finished concrete, or the customer wants a clear finish, or it’s infrastructure like a bridge mentioned in the study, then yeah penetrating all the way.
Last thing I will say is that solvents (Volatile Organic Compounds) typically have molecular densities less than water and very high vapor pressures which allow them to cure quicker. In terms of penetrating sealers this is going to allow the suspended solids, or dissolved solution to carry farther into the pores of the concrete. For topical sealers, the finish is much more durable.
I can speak to the durability first-hand, try to strip a solvent based sealer vs a water based (both topical) and tell me which one is harder lol.
Just thought I would write this out for general use…
Carriers/type:
Solvent/Oil Based (Common name) contain high VOCs as a carrier of the solution. Water Based (Common name) contain low to no VOCs as a carrier of the solution.
Then there’s the physical attributes of each…
Topical - Forms a film on top of the substrate and may even fill into pores depending on other abilities. Penetrating - Dives deep into the substrate and films a barrier around the pores.
Then the last component would be the solids that when mixed with a carrier form the solution that we apply. Silanes/Siloxanes, Acrylics, Urethanes, etc.
Solvent-based penetrating sealers are so uncommon, I haven’t seen a study comparing them to their water-based counterparts. For topical sealers, solvent-based options are generally preferred over water based even though both are readily available.
Agreed, depends on the end application, but yes, typically for decorative concrete and pavers topical is best, unless a non-glossy finish is desired by the client.
If you’re not using polymeric sand in paver joints, a topical sealer might help, but they typically lack the “glue” to hold things in place unless it’s specifically designed as a stabilizer. Using quality polymeric sand is the best approach, then it’s not necessary to worry about sealers for stabilization.
Water molecules are exceptionally small compared to most other solvent carriers used in sealers, which is precisely why water is often the preferred choice for penetrating sealers and solvents are the preferred choice for topicals.
We use Gatormax G2 because it’s readily available, I have yet to find another brand from any local distributors that is better quality. The only issues I have had with it is if it doesn’t get watered properly or if you don’t allow enough time for it to fully cure before sealing, both errors were due to our own ignorance lol.
And I think I was thinking of the vapor density and not the molecular weight, it was pretty late.
Have you found any other studies or articles that have been useful? If so, could you share links, I have had a difficult time finding anything aside from the normal forums and blog posts.
