Looks like a v-bend die mark to me.
I think we posted within seconds of each other, ha.
@WaterProEC What are the LxW dimensions of your plate. How far does your pump hang over the back edge (if at all)?
I didnât make this one, but here is the design I use. Solid steel, less than $100.
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The 7/3k is a Udor GC series, not GK. You can buy it from dultmeier with the gear reduction box for $841. Theyâre gonna ding ya pretty good for the shipping though because it drop ships from Udor.
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@transonik21 My base plate dimensions are 30" x 18". The pump does not overhang the base plate. @Jake_Lambert is correct about the GC series. My Udor is the GKC which is 8/3500 gear drive.
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Rocking a O2 sensor on that lil thing, I like it but I have not worked on those EFIâs so Iâm overly cautious about getting into them for future machines. Pull that hydraulic tee on you inlet and look at the inside, I bet itâs already corroded and flaking. Stainless and brass are the only metals I would install on the inlet side of the pump. Using zink plated steel there is a good way to damage the ceramic plungers.
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@WaterProEC you mentioned the pump not overhanging the plate; is that an issue? My plate is also rectangular, but I ran the long side parallel with the engine cylinders; I figured that would be the direction of most of the torque and vibration, and wanted the widest stance for my rubber feet to be able to dampen it. My pump does overhang the other side, has this made problems for people?
@dperez Thank you for that info. I was not aware. I will take that off and check and see if I can find a stainless one.
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@Jake_Lambert I do not think it would be an issue for the pump to hang over, but this is my first and only build (so far). I did not want my pump to hang over as I wanted to be able to support the pump with some feet or support. I had a bracket on there up until yesterday. I did not like what I had made so I am looking to come up with another rail / support method.
Ok, whew. Man I did NOT want to find/cut/drill/mount a new piece of steel!
In that size SS would run you right around a million dollars. You could run Sch 80 PVC though
@dperez You are correct, they are not cheap. I do want to stay with brass or preferably stainless. I did find this one at Dultmeier Tees (FPT x FPT x FPT), 304 Stainless Steel: High Pressure â 3000 PSI - Dultmeier Sales for $44.50 in 1.25" It is rated for 3000 psi, my pump puts out 3500 psi, I am thinking that the extra 500 psi will not be a factor as there must be some allowance in the construction of these. Any thoughts on this? Should I continue to look for one with a a higher psi rating. I appreciate the input and observation.
You donât need a high pressure tee there. Get a plastic schedule 80 as Dezmar mentioned above.
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Inlet sees vacuum not pressure disregard any pressure ratings on the inlet plumbing. The top two ports on the head/manifold are where the high pressure is.
@dperez Daaah, you are right, what the heck was I thinking? Brain fart or old age, not sure which. @marinegrunt Brian you are right, no need to over-engineer a simple water intake. Now I am sitting here laughing at myself for using stainless king nipples. I swear sometimes I canât see the forest for the trees. Thank you both.
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Using a metal hose barb adapter (king nipples) is not a bad idea since you donât want the slightest little bump or old age to cause a small break in the fitting. Introducing air into the supply would tear up the high pressure seals. So yeah, using metal there was a good idea but youâre not going to hurt a fat plastic tee on the other side.
Base Plate Update: Went with 3/8" thick alum laser cut. Left about 4" of clearance underneath for mounting to trailer. Mounting holes for engine placement were already cut into plate. Mounted unloader block to my hose reel frame so didnât need any holes for that. Thanks for all your opinions and suggestions.
