Why won’t DI alone work with readings of a 100?
It will, but the higher the PPM the faster the resin will degrade, up to a point where it will not be worth it and an RO/DI system is necessary then. Hence @Allenwagner saying for the rainwater that has PPM of 7 greatly cuts in DI resin costs, as it degrades way slower.
Thank you for the good answer. I just had to deal with the failure of my ro filters. I bought a used homemade system to start with wfp and this past week the water from the ro jumped to 140 ppm . I needed to make a couple hundred gallons of pure water for a large job and my di would only bring it down to 8-11ppm. This forced me to try the rainwater which I have been considering for the last year but didn’t try since I didn’t need to. Now, I probably won’t replace the to. Doing commercial jobs I find it’s quicker and easier to haul the water in than hooking up hoses. It’s less of a trip hazard and I can be washing windows a minute after backing in. Same thing with rapping up when I am done. I am kind of jealous of the guys who have 45ppm coming out of the spigot.
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While you’re at it, train the monkey to lightly agitate the glass with a brush after you soap the house and before you rinse. Then you can go back around with a WFP and simply rinse with DI water for a spot-free finish. No brush work needed.
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I mean to be fair… we didn’t ask for the advice lol he just posted it.
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I used to work for a window cleaning company in Toledo. We once cleaned a set of 70’ glass stairwells, without a pump. They didn’t even own a pump for the wfp at all, and never needed it.
We run two wfp through a single di filter on the same job. No pump and plenty of pressure even to 40 ft. If you are running di only and not through the ro you should be fine with most tap pressure.
