Where to buy a machine?

Newbie Questions
22

Use a hudson float valve, and attach it to a down-tube so you can adjust the water level you want/need.

Install a reed float switch to shut off the machine if the water goes below your minimum for gravity feed. You could also elevate the tank if you don’t plan on hauling the trailer with water in it.

But all in all, you’ll probably be happier with the 5.6. Makes a very noticeable difference in efficiency, especially when it comes time to rinse.

PS: it’s my personal opinion that the 275 totes are overkill if you’re running off the customer’s water with a machine smaller than 8gpm. Even 8gpm washers can be run from a 65-100 gallon tank if water supplies are good in your area.

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23

Good info on the float valves, I’ll take a look at the reed float switch. I do plan to tow with water in the tank as it’s central to the build. Ya 275 is a bit overkill, but food grades can be had for $75 locally, ideally I’d like a water tank with baffles, but at the moment thats $300 better spent elsewhere.

I’m already going to spring for the 5.6 when I can (unless I book 30 customers in a month). I did a soft wash for my parents house, and I’m totally in love with it!

24

I use 2-275 totes on 2-4gpm 4k machines. My tanks are not elevated, they sit along side my pumps and I don’t have any problems feeding the pumps I run a two operator trailer with 2-200’ hoses.

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25

I do ok with my machines but it would be a great improvement and much more versatile to go with the 5.6gpm @2500

26

Thanks! You’ve relieved a lot of stress I’ve been having over this!

27

IF your budget is so low, I would suggest building your own. Find some great deals or used parts, get the most bang for your buck.

It is really nice having a local dealer, your going to have breakdowns. My dealer stocks parts for what he sells,

28

I keep reading how gpm matters more than psi. I like to think I have some sense about me, but I just can’t seem to grasp the concept. I mean you NEED pressure to run surface cleaners and clean concrete right? Also I have a direct drive running off a 275 gal tote with the Hudson float valve set at 100 but can be adjusted if needed. The tote is not elevated and everything flows in line. Putting out 3800 psi on my red tip test with the gauge. But back to the psi vs gpm debate. :thinking: Shoot some knowledge my way while I check out The search tab.

29

Fairly certain the GPM matters more for 2 reasons:

  • More water flow to rinse for soft washing, after dwell time.
  • With more GPM, you have more volume of water @ said pressure. I.E. 4 GPM @ 2k psi vs. 8 GPM @ 2k psi; one simply spits out twice the water at the same pressure, filling up that square-inch faster than the other with the same pressure. So the cleaning effect is accomplished in half the time. Now with a 4 GPM @ 4k psi; it has higher pressure in that square inch, but will still fill up that square inch slower than an 8 GPM unit would.

So the difference is hitting something with a hammer & nail vs. just the hammer, polishing with a high-speed Dremel, or 6" polisher.

For me, I’ll be focusing on soft-washing applications vs. commercial surface cleaning so pressure isn’t my main focus.

30

That makes good sense and I read some different threads that say the same thing. It does take me a while to rinse when I do m my softwashes. I’m just wanting to get a surface cleaner to speed up my clean times and trying to figure out which to get. I think you’re spot on though. When it’s time for me to upgrade at the minimum I’m gonna get a 5.5 gpm belt drive

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31

More gpm is more important for faster cleaning, This year I’m switching my pumps to 5.5-5.6gpm

32

I totally agree with racer. I’ve had that same machine only direct drive though for 6 yrs. I bought a new one last yr and used the old for a backup. It finely went to the bone yard and have to get a new one. I always keep a back up of everything. That $1000 machine has made me lots of $$$

33

I pulled the trigger on the 4gpm@4000psi belt-drive machine from PressureTek. And I got the downstream nozzle kit to go with it. So far, I’m not totally impressed. The flow is nice, but I was hoping it would shoot higher. I’ll try it with the xjet nozzle. I have a job lined up for tomorrow, so we’ll see how it works in the field.

34

You should be getting 30’ - 35’ feet easy

35

Are you using the “stock” nozzles or “shooter tip”. Also a xjet wont shoot farther. If you need more height use a longer lance with a shooter tip.

GPM helps to get height as well, my 5.5 will out shoot my 4gmp

36

Sounds about right, I guess. My house is on a slope and has a big gable. It might be 40 feet in the back. Most houses I wash are not that high.

37

So I did my first job with the new machine. It worked out pretty well, but I felt like there could be more output and occasionally it was stuttering like it didn’t have enough water coming in. I timed the water out of the hose. It took 1:49 to fill a 5 gallon bucket. That’s only 2.7 gpm. Seems like that’s not enough to run a 4gpm machine. I was under the impression that you can typically run a 4gpm without a tank. I hope that is a fluke.

38

It’s bigger than I expected. I can just barely lift it into my truck. I could easily hurt my back doing that. Looks like I’ll need some ramps as well.

39

You should be getting 4 gpm out of it. Check the faucet before using it if you ever have a doubt. Just get a 5 gallon bucket and see how long it takes to fill it up. Need to have at least 4 gallon in a minute. Make sure your hose from the house to your washer doesn’t have any kinks or anything they could restrict the flow.

40

I’m just guessing here, but the stuttering you’re experiencing could be the DS injector sucking air. Try your test again with it plugged or have it in some water.

41

You are quite correct. You need a buffer tank if you plan on using it at jobs like that. Sounds like you were on well water?