A WFP setup will only work on windows with no screens on the outside. If you were to ladder up to every window to remove the screen, then put it back on later, it would be faster to just do them with a squeegee. Not to mention, if you put a screen back on a window that hasn’t dried yet, it will leave water spots.
Unless your area does not have screens on the outside of the windows, your best bet would be to just hire a boot and set him up with some squeegees…
Sent from my iPhone using Pressure Washing Resource
I’m thinking about doing the same thing, Kevin. Just got back from the Nashville show and there are quite a few people who require the screens to be out. I’m actually thinking about offering the front windows only for an EDDM campaine next year. Unger has a complete starter kit that WCR sells for about $600. Nothing fancy but it has a 20’ AL WTP, DI tank, resin brush and hose (everything you need to get started). To me the pole is sturdy enough for 2 story gutter scrubbing which is a plus because I hate the long arm poles I’m using now.
Best: up to personal opinion, but a Carbon pole of any type will be better than other materials. RO/DI filtration for low operating costs. The Reach-iT & Wash-iT combo from WCR is a good bet.
Easiest: again, depends on what you consider easy- easy to get started with it, easy to operate and maintain, or easy on the wallet?
Most efficient: I’ve found a truck mounted tank system with reel to be the most efficient for setting up and packing up. Others swear by hand coiling hose, and others even use backpack sprayers (@BostonMike, for example)
first thing I would recommend is getting a TDS meter if you don’t already own one. They’re about $25 at WCR. That will give you an idea of the water quality in your area, so you know what type of purification system you may want to invest in. But I would recommend putting your money into a really good pole, and worrying about fancy filtration later. A basic 1/2 cube DI tank will give just as good results as a fancy RO/DI cart. You’ll just spend more on resin.
PS: even if the window cleaning doesn’t pan out, a Carbon Fiber pole is a great tool to have. I use mine for gutter whitening, as well. Much less fatigue than using an aluminum pole (might want to keep the pole sections waxed with some kind of protective coating if you do a lot of whitening, though. I’m guessing Gutter Grenade could be rough on the carbon after awhile)
I’d say a lot of the same things Alex just said. One nice thing about combining services is that after you’ve done a real good job washing a house and hitting the windows as well, the windows are that much easier to make perfect. If there are aluminum screens on the outside, that may present an extra challenge of aluminum stain, screen burn or whatever you want to call it. Thankfully, it’s not the norm.
[MENTION=3471]Alex Lacey[/MENTION], Good points. This kit I’m talking about the DI tank has a built in TDS meter. Pretty much dummy proof which is what I need. I know carbon fiber is the best but I’m going to have to start out with something like this. Even though this is Al it is by far more sturdy than the mister long arm I use now
I looked up the water quality report for your area, and the TDS ranges from 36 to 108. I think that an RO system would be way overkill for your area, especially considering this will be an add-on for you. So I would suggest just getting a 1/2 cube DI tank (~$220 @ WCR), and putting your money into the pole.