Trailer Set Up

I am in the process of setting up my first trailer. I will be using a 275 gallon cube tank, fed by 3/4" hose on a reel. I will have a hot water unit and a cold water unit each with their own HP reel. I will be using the tank as a buffer tank with the unloaders dumping back to the tank. I have a lot of questions…What size/type water lines do I need to feed the PWs? What size for the unloader return lines? Does anybody use the PEX tubing? Where is a good place to get the right size fittings? Do I need brass or stainless, or will plastic valves & fittings do? I live in the mid-south, so temps will be hot most of the year…

I try to double the intake size that I would use if the intake line were force fed. So a 3/4" becomes 1 1/2". Some of our intake hose is poly braid, some is super duty stuff from the local ag store. Our bigger pumps, 8 gpm or larger, are fed with two intake lines. One big line from tank to filter, dual lines from filter to pw’er.

Big, as in Really big, filters are a must in line for the intake.

3/8" hose for return lines. Hey, I didn’t say it was right but we had one thousand feet of it so we had to use it up somewhere.

Brass and plastic fittings.

We use our local hardware store for fittings. The fitting at the pump head is a different thread and had to be ordered online.

I’ve used pex in radiant heat floor systems but never on the pw trailer.

My eighteen year old son does all of the plumbing, welding, and fab work so please don’t overthink it and make it more complicated than it has to be.

Get a real tank. Or else vow to always carry your tote tank either full or empty. A half a tank in a tote is tiring on the drivetrain and the driver. We have a tote tank and it has crap bolted all over it so don’t think that I’m against tote tanks just because they’re redneck, ugly, and ghetto.

Oh, put mean green on your Easter Bunny list for your supply hose.

You don’t say what gpm the machines are but 1" should be ok. We use polybraid hose for supply, and discharge. I would supply from different bulkheads on opposite sides of the tank.

You can use brass, stainless, or PVC, the lines are not under pressure, we go with PVC. We get our bulkhead fittings from Grainger or McMaster-Carr the rest you can get at the box store, or all from a local plumbing supply.

Sorry John, 5 gpm on the hot water, 3.5 gpm on the cold water. I am saving up my pennies to get a higher gpm pump, but for now, I will have to make this work. Thanks for the input guys…

Do you mean that water in totes tends to slosh / be more unstable than in a tank with curves sides or a cylindrical profile?

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Way. Yes.

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put 4" drainage pipe in your tanks and you wont get the sloshing effect… we use 50’ -100’ of 4" drainage in our totes for our liquid deicer setups and it works great… just jam it in there. only lose about 20 gallons of tank capacity.

Sounds like an awesome idea…

That sounds awesome! Just spiral and wind it round any way it wants to go, to break up the volume?

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Ive seen guys cut them into foot long pieces, I personally just shove it right in the top and spiral it in as much as i can… your basically putting in crap load of tiny baffles… only works if you fill the entire interior though…

I used to use polybraid but switched to Bob’s spiraflex hose and it’s stronger and more flexible. You have to call Bob to order it. I use 1" for 8gpm.