Trailer question

[COLOR=#333333][FONT=lucida grande]can anyone help me with some advice on trailers? looking at a 14x7. pretty much figured it out online, then went to a few local places and they kept trying to tell me i needed “reinforced” structure and 12 in spacing in the floor boards instead of 24. i get how this would be important more long term, but im just looking to drop 3-4k on something that will get me through the first year or 2 until we upgrade. my unit is a hydrotec 7.8 gpm 3000 psi dual operator. so we are going big on the unit right away. trailer i figure we could upgrade year 2-3 when we buy a big cold gpm unit for resi and have 2 hot units in one trailer/truck for commercial. what am i getting for 3-4 k for a trailer and what do i really NEED just to get me through the first 1-2 years trailer wise?[/FONT][/COLOR]

Two axles.

Brakes on both.

5,200 pound axles preferred. (Should be 6 lug wheels)

Channel iron frame if flat deck.

Hitch/axles/brakes/tires. The rest will fall together.

The question is are you going to operate residential off the same unit? This makes a Difference. My photo bucket has 24 units I have set up, unfortunately they are all identical.

with that big of a unit you def need dual axles and at least brakes on 1 axle… Keep us posted on the setup

Post up a link to the trailer that you are liking the most at this time.

Sorry Dave, I was thinking flat deck or open trailer. I don’t have much experience with the enclosed models.

I’ve seen guys pretty much trash a trailer like that in a few years of heavy use. Are you sure you couldn’t do open for a couple of years?

I run open trailers… And I prefer them over open… Open trailers are to the world to view your mess, and maybe your now messy but to me even a powerwasher with a dirty hose and rusty exhaust sheild and oil stains here and there looks kinda un-professional… The enclosed trailer will keep rain and everything off of your equipment, and if it does start to look bad people wont know because all they can see is a giant rolling billboard… The price difference in the open and the closed will be made up in the 1st month of driving around with it, turns alot more heads than an open trailer…Clients dont know what a 20k dollar rigs look like on a open trailer nor do they care, but if you pull up with a 3500k trailer with 800$ worth of graphics you will turn anyones head… Plus the added security. Cant tell but I would assume is has at least 3500lb axles? Two rear doors are nice you can leave on closed if you want… Looks like its been sitting there awhile judging by the weeds! Work them down on the price and I think you will be very happy

+1 I think that it is advertising space/rolling billboard that is prime advertising real estate for your business.

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if we go open, i want it to look like this.

i totally get what your saying about closed though, the advertising alone makes it worth it.

what im worried about with that one is its a $3500 trailer, and ive been told with all the structure and extras i need to spend 6500-7 to get what im “required” to have

im really torn

A decent open trailer will run like 2 grand. Whoever is quoting you 7 grand is an idiot.

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how would someone arrive at 7k? that trailer looks great for what you described you will be using it for

$6-7k sounds more like a good, capable enclosed trailer that would cope with your work… and that’s Canadian prices! lol

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The trailer you posted pics of would work well. First things first I would add a second floor to beef things up. That would be super easy and cheap. Then drill 1/2 holes in the floor in several spots. Then cut 1/2 pvc pipe in 5-6 inches in length. Drill a pilot hole towards the top of the pipe. Use the PVC pipe to line the holes that you drilled in the floor, and place a screw in the pilot hole to hold the pipe in place. Use caulking to seal any crack or crevice around these pvc pipes and the seams of your floor. The holes in the floor allow for drainage. The PVC pipe is used to keep any water or chemical that drains off any of the axles, wires, or any other important part of the trailer.

Then you need to use some kind of waterproofing material to cover the floor and at least 6 inches up the wall. If you want to get really serious, you could do what Len Sutton did and fiberglass the entire floor. West Marine sells fiberglass by the yard. It will cost a little extra, but it would totally be worth it in the long run. I just used a really good epoxy paint and put down several coats - but if I had a brand new trailer I would do the fiberglass for sure. This makes your trailer almost a tub, but the drain holes allow water to drain out where you want it too - protecting the trailer.

As for braces every 12 inches as opposed to 24, I don’t think that’s really necessary. If you wanted to be overly careful, you could have a few pieces welded under the tank and the skid. It wouldn’t cost that much, and it would be easy to do.

This may seem like a lot of work, but it’s really not. Considering your climate, it would be totally worth it. An enclosed trailer that has been set up for pressure washing has serious benefits. Make sure you do have electric brakes, I would suggest both axles. And each axle should be at least 3,500lb - but that’s generally standard.