Push in right direction

I want to ask these questions in one post to reduce spam so if you take the time to read through I appreciate it, I know everyone is going to look at my read time and tell me to read more, which I will but I would like to verify the direction I’m going in so I don’t get confused with the different things because there’s a lot. I also want to see people’s opinions on the equipment I’m listing for a SW and PW

The main thing I’m confused on is what the point of a downstream injector is off of your PW when you can only get such little %, is it just for the surfaces that require lower % so you can easily go from soap to water by changing the tip because of the venturi effect in the injector?

I was planning on getting a 5.5 GPM 3,000 PSI with a buffer tank for my surface cleaner and add the injector for lower percents and then create a 12v system with a 12v battery, 12v pump, FatBoy Kuri Tec Ag Hose Kit, Flojet 305730004A Accumulator Tank and a filter along with the plumbing.

With the 12v setup I was going to make the highest solution I needed (let’s say 4% for a roof) and if I was doing a whole house I would dilute it throughout the process going down the line so like I’d start with a 4% for a roof then a 2% for another surface and then rinse with and since the 12v only pumps your solution I’d just deatach my hose from my 12v and use my PW to rinse off the soap?

Based off of stuff I’ve read this seems like it’s not the most efficient way and like I’m missing a lot but that’s the problem, I’ve read on other sites and watched videos for this past month and I get the lingo it’s just I get everything mixed up.

I don’t mean to disrespect anyone on here, I know I need to get that red time up on here before I gain any respect from anyone, I truly appreciate anyone taking time out of their day to respond and help me out. Thank you. :slight_smile:

This thread has now turned into a BBQ debate

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So, starting with the simplest stuff first:

Downstreaming is sufficient for washing most non-porous surfaces (vinyl, painted wood, aluminum, etc.). It’s the simplest, quickest way of getting set up for house washing.

A lot of people on this forum recommend starting with just downstreaming, because it will narrow your focus to the easiest stuff to clean. And there is a lot of money to be made cleaning those non-porous surfaces.

When you eventually start with the somewhat trickier stuff (concrete, stucco, asphalt shingle roofs), 12v is usually the easiest, most straightforward application method. There are two primary ways of utilizing a 12v system:

  • Batch mix - just how it sounds; you mix up a batch of exactly how much water, SH, and soap you want and spray that on with your 12v system.

  • Proportioning system - system of mixing valves that allow you to draw varied ratios of water, sh, and soap.

There are pluses and minuses to both methods. The proportioners are a real space saver, since they eliminate the batch tank, but there are more plumbing connections and potential for leaks and priming issues.

Once you are working with both downstreaming and a 12v system on the same rig, you will find that DS’ing is a more efficient application method for all of the non-porous surfaces mentioned above. The pressure washer is able to put out a strong enough solution, in much less time and with considerably more force and reach, than a 12v pump is capable of.

If you’re using batch mixing for the 12v, you will not be able to downstream out of it; the solution will be too diluted. But set up properly, you could use the same SH tank for both a 12v proportioning system and downstreaming with a dual barb injector.


Then there’s the xjet, which can be treated as a sort of in-between solution. It will apply a strong enough solution for some stucco and concrete work, but generally not strong enough for roofs. It can be cumbersome, due to lugging around a pail of solution, and having a second hose hooked up to your gun. But it can be very handy for smaller areas, and allows for quick rinsing by turning off the soap right at the gun. It has its place in every house washer’s toolkit.

I hope this helps clarify some stuff for you.

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Wow, what an in-depth reply, thank you so much. I’m 18 and I’ve been saving for 4 years now so my plan was to get that 5.5 3,000 and downstream and then have the 12v for roofs, I like how you divided them with the word porous because that makes more sense, stuff where it has more grooves is going to need higher % since more things can grow inside so using the 12V with a batch mix will have whatever percent you want for said job, where downstreaming low percentage is an easier way to get siding done efficiently while being able to wash off easier.

Two questions with this, if I use a 12v to apply to roofs from a ladder, what would I use to rinse it off? would I just take the hose that I’m using for the 12V and attach it to my PW with quick connects and rinse it off with the black tip?

Thanks again, that clears up a lot!

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Man, you’re overthinking this.

The injector is used for normal housewashing with vinyl or stable painted aluminum along with gutters and soffits. It’s also used to pre and post treat concrete. It snaps on right after the unloader, or even right before the hose reel.

A few of us on here have remote controlled ball valves that turn on/off the draw hose feeding the injector so you can still use all of your jrod tips or xjet downstream nozzle.

I’ll defer to the other guys about the 12v, I don’t mess with roofs as it requires very expensive insurance and extensive knowledge/techniques to prevent damage.

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No sir that was still a helpful reply I was reading through it again and you edited it haha. So you said you don’t do roofs because it’s too much with the insurance and everything and you don’t find it being worth it? Then you said downstreaming through your PW is for siding and stuff of that nature?

I don’t do roofs, but have researched extensively here and on other forums. The rinse/don’t rinse issue is a whole debate unto itself.

Those who do rinse, I believe use either the 12v or a garden hose. The soft wash (12v) hose won’t work connected to a pressure washer, since it’s only made to withstand 300psi (maybe 800 for the really sturdy stuff). PW’er would destroy it.

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Yeah the injector is for ‘standard’ housewashing and I use it 90% of the time.

Consider roofs as ‘level 8’ when it comes to experience, you may want to just get some houses done for a few years before attempting roofs. I’ve seen the aftermath of a poorly done job (they used a rinse bar) and the customer was…upset.

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I didn’t even consider it, my bad, so I would just put the hose in water then. Thanks again :slight_smile:

Oh one more thing.

As an alternative to using a remote valve, the cheap way is a buddy and some walkie talkies. We did that for a while until I got mine built.:+1:

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Yeah maybe it would be wise to not start with roofs especially considering I have 2 months of this season left and no prior experience.

Can’t I just use a ball valve or just use a higher pressure tip to switch to water or do I need to physically switch it/use a remote valve?

Ball valve isn’t great for the unloader, especially if using a flow actuated unloader. And ball valves really aren’t designed to be cracked open. They are meant to be fully open or fully closed.

Hi pressure rinse tips can disturb oxidation. In my neck of the woods, pretty much every vinyl sided house has oxidation. So I just go back to the truck to turn off the DSi. I’ll eventually get around to installing a remote system.

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Same here, almost every house has oxidation and with that you can’t even use a garden hose. You’re saying it’s ok to just turn off the DSI on the PW though? I thought that wasn’t a good thing to do each time, thanks

Side point for you:
If you’re considering the bandit 5.5@3000, with the gx390, I’m very dubious of their advertised specs. The 390 should put out 2500@5.5gpm max.

So if you’re anticipating a lot of flatwork (concrete surface cleaning), I would go for a larger motor, like the gx630, which should happily put out 5.5@3500. You have to consider pressure loss from the hoses.

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Use a poly 3-way valve on the DSi, so you can pull water instead of bleach. It’ll keep your injector working a lot longer.

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So 5.5 3500 with a gx630?

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Yeah. Or accept the fact that you’re really only going to get around 2500psi from that bandit, and don’t plan on a lot of flatwork. I like my Pressure Pro 5.6@2500 for housewashing. But I do almost no flatwork. Here in the Northeast, there’s hardly any concrete driveways. Paved or dirt are the two choices :rofl:

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I’m in NEPA haha you’re right do you think I should go with the 5.5 3500 gx360? I have a lot of higher income developments around though so they have pool areas.

Does the 5.6 give you that much more than the 5.5

Pretty sure it’s the same pump. Just advertised differently