Please Advise X-Jet M5

Byeeee

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Careful buddy, been on a dry spell since the old lady left back in April… :wink:

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Oh no I’m out

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tenor

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Hey now! I wanted to cut my chem costs in half!!
:bath::laughing:

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[quote=“Greenman, post:26, topic:13711, full:true”]
Hey now! I wanted to cut my chem costs in half.

Hw fixed, I can have a shrimp boil in the tub if I want now, come on over bubby !

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@Greenman I’ll leave you two to it

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Congrats man! We really dont appreciate clean hot water on demand until we have to do without it.

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Hello,

Dish soap creates issues because they aren’t compatible with SH. Depending on the soap; it could curdle on contact with the SH solution, leaving behind balls of white stuff that is hard to get out of your system, and for sure leaves behind streaks. Also, MOST soaps immediately start attacking the SH. So your 12.5 drops down to a 6% in minutes.

We, the formulators of the world, design our products to be used as directed. Unless we specifically put on the label to add in X amount of our product to SH, DON’T DO IT!

This is has been a friendly reminder that you are not a chemist, although you may have stayed at a Holiday Inn last night, thank you and have a great day :slight_smile:

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:microphone: got dropped! Science for the win!

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giphy%20(1)

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I always love hearing from you @CaCO3Girl :laughing::heart_eyes:

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Welcome back Mary

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When someone @ ‘s me, I’m always happy to drop by :slight_smile:

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You are our candle in the dark, thanks for everything.

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Sorry, missed the soap comment first go around. The soap rinse prior to rinsing with the vinegar is to be water and soap, not water plus soap plus SH. I don’t usually recommend a high pH rinse followed by a low pH rinse…doesn’t go well on the substrates.

The actual soap rinse, again using just soap and water, should be used to break the surface tension of the dirt stuck on the window which should make it easier to clean :-).

I have actually never ran a pressure washer in my life! However, I’ve been formulating cleaner and degreasers for a minute or two :wink:

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I need some advice on one of the original questions. Just how do you clean stained wood without removing the stain color or even the rest of the stain? Does anyone here ever use just a surfactant and no sh, or a specific type of soap meant for the application to clean things? I have been following the guidelines on decks and where the uv hits I always lose a ton of color.

Step 1: prewet until water is standing on the wood
Step 2: apply up to only 1% sh and surfactant, (last time was 0.8%) and let dwell only 5-10 minutes max
Step 3: rinse well. I tried two different methods on this. First section I used an 800psi 25deg tip and kept it 8-12” away from the surface, constantly moving. I always see film that I keep thinking is dirt, grime and organic growth and I rinse it clean off. It looks great (like it’s still stained) wet but when dries the color goes away with it.
Step 4: while still wet, apply oxalic at 8oz per gallon (by volume not weight), let dwell 5 minutes and gently rinse off.

Is my 800 psi rinse causing the color to come out? The other smaller section I did I rinsed the solution off with almost no pressure. It left the film on and it seemed to help the color stay a bit better but not sure if I’m supposed to be removing the film?

It happens the worse on stain that is old enough to have been deteriorated by the uv. The stain in covered areas remains but still lightens a fair amount.

To recap: is there a soap I can clean with, without using sh, specifically on stained wood?
Should I not rinse the “film” off the top of the wood if doing it normally using sh?
Thanks in advance!

@Seandz you apply oxalic acid on stained wood??

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Lol. He marches to a different drum.

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