Machine misfiring on low pressure

How odd… yeah it I think I blew it whatever junk was in the cap… flows better now…

Also upon inspection the filter looks fine but very hard to blow through… where do I get replacements?

Everything deffently clean now… soaked and wiped everything down… hose is clear, tank is clear, cup is good…

Gonna put it all back together
Seems to have slightly better flow at least.

Oh I also made another discovery.
So I have a spare unloader.
The current one Its 1 year old so thought i would inspect.
Because I’m a curios cat, I took them both apart.

Is the ball inside supposed to be loose? Once I took the spring and plunger out, I can shake it and see the ball just bouncing around.

On the new one it is seated and does not shake around at all.

Not sure where you’d get them locally as I’m in Australia.

You can get them from eBay though, I just googled it :slight_smile:

I recall that mine used to rattle, but I moved away from trapped pressure unloaders and never looked back.

Haven’t bought one ever since!

(I use a K1 flow sensitive unloader as it’s easier on the hose, fittings, orings, gun and mostly the no kick-back from pressing the trigger).

Ah if heard of those would like to try then out!
Well thank you so much for the assistance.

Think its gonna do better now. Maybe a little tweaking on the throttle stop.

Also do you have any idea about checking the “spark arrestor”?
My manual is made in china… lol

I hate those little filters. They’re just so small and doesn’t take much to clog them up. I usually get rid of them and just use an inline filter. If you have a fuel shutoff you can easily replace an inline filter in a couple minutes. You don’t have to do this but if the fuel your getting is loaded with debris it would make it more convenient to change out. You might also want to filter you fuel as you fill up your gas tank. You can be little screens that go under the cap that will filter and catch any debris.

As for the spark arrestor there should be a little set screw on the side of the muffler right at the end. Just take that screw out and you should be able to pull the spark arrestor out. If you stick your finger in the opening of the muffler the tip of your finger should hit a screen. That screen is formed in the shape of a cylinder and is inserted in the muffler opening. That little set screw holds it in.

Yea that’s exactly what I was thinking of doing… inline filter…

As for the spark arrestor, I have given up. My muffler has a metal casing and the screws that hold it on are long gone with rust and corrosion… so no more access… I

Can see the set screw but its behind this metal casing… eh, oh well…

Even tried pb blaster and a torch… not budging…

With it only being a year old I’m sure the screen doesn’t have much carbon build up so I wouldn’t worry about it. What you can do is start the engine and get the muffler hot to try and get the screws out. It might work. I would definitely use a cordless impact driver or even pickup a handheld impact. Using a screwdriver by hand will likely keep stripping them. With a handheld you smack it with a hammer and it knocks them loose.

Impact

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Thanks for the advice, but I did try that…

I tried heating them with a torch, hitting the driver with my baby sledge… nothing…

But in sure the the build up is minimal.

Might just drill them out and replace the screws.

I will post results tomorrow on how she runs on low pressure.

Steps I took

  1. Adjusted throttle stop screw- reduced misfires
  2. Cleaned out gas tank, lines, filters and cap
  3. Replaced unloader(not sure if necessary but the old one looked grungy inside)
  4. Cleaned sediment cup
  5. Cleaned air filter
  6. Checked belts/spark plug/ and all supporting springs on the throttle lever. All good condition

Got a mobile home softwash tomorrow, will set the unloader and see how it goes.

Learned alot today! Thanks everyone for all the advice and tips!

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Take a dremel type tool and use a mini cutting disc to cut a slot into screw and remove screw with flathead screwdriver. Replace with stainless screws.

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Good idea. That works pretty good. You can sometimes grind the side of the head enough to where you can pull the heat shield off and then get a pair of vice grips on them. You can also weld a bolt onto the screw to where you can use a socket. Although, the smaller the screw the more difficult it is to get enough weld. It doesn’t take much weld though.

I wouldn’t even mess with using screws again. Just use bolts.

Running a little seafoam a few times a year does the trick.

Or just throw the Honda away and get a predator.

On a side note, a fellow camper last year was having issues with his portable generator, kept sputtering and shutting off. Turns out the gas cap was not venting and causing a vapor lock issue. I took it off and it ran fine.

I don’t condone this obviously but still an interesting process of elimination.

Interesting tips guys. I might try that stuff.

Or just throw seafoam though it :laughing:

So yeah… that new unloader opened up my flow ALOT. I was getting several more feet of reach and just better performance overall.

Had more kick as well… but my surface cleaner flew!

Engine ran better for sure as well.
I still am having to mess with the throttle screws tho… I think I may might need to replace all the springs… they may have lost their springiness…

It will run great, then after a few minutes start missing and I’ll check the throttle lever and it had moved.

But yeah… started better, sounded better, ran clean.

I think a combo of cleaning the fuel cap and tank filter helped alot.

Oh 1 comment though…

The new unloader(from pressure tek, I think just a basic replacement nothing fancy)

So… the plug on the opposite end of the bypass just blew out on start…

Luckily I found it. I gusse I should have checked all the fittings from the factory, but I expect the plugs to be in there tight. The one on bottom started leaking and needed a tightening to.

So to all future readers, check all the plugs on your new unloader before cranking up.

They should never be shipped tight. Then you would have to loosen them based on your configuration

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Ah I guess that makes sense… but also makes sense to be safer than easier…

I didn’t even think about how the other pluged holes might be used… I always wondered that.

What are they used for?

There is a nut in the throttle bar that comes loose occaisionally and the throttle will basically close a bit. Tighten that nut.

They are all labeled.