Infinity Cleaning Mobile 3.0, aka Truck Norris

Can you still fit your rear mount for the ladder rack?

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Or is that driver side only?

Thank you! That is just the sort of obvious thing I needed to be reminded of. Durr :crazy_face:

If I’m going to have the ladder rack on only one side or the other, I think I’d prefer curb-side. But there’s an aweful lot going on with that side, already… :thinking:

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Looked like something I would do, that’s how I noticed :joy:

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Do you have the extensions for the drain hoses on the engine and pump? You may want to install those too before you bolt it down.

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I’ll have to order those sometime before spring.

I’m considering this orientation at the moment:

Detail of my space saving custom handles :rofl:

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Orient the starter cord down so you don’t have to pull up at an awkward angle. Of you plan to venture into townhomes or apartments you need the reels on the back so you can back into parking spaces and pull the hoses off.

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With the set up you have after you add your buffer tank and everything needed. Do you think there’s also going to be room to add a fat boy bandit system with 100 gallon tank as well? Considering doing this as well

Why so many hose reels? Only for one guy set up right? Or you going with a two person set up?

Supply, pressure, wfp, chemical application

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My ds tank is a 20 gallon vertical tank. I plan on keeping straight bleach with surfactant in it, and using the stainless proportioning injector for ds’ing diluted mix. Wfp pump will be mounted under the bed, with room for a chem pump as well. I’ll use a diy proportioner for the chem pump whenever I get it set up. I could potentially add another 20 gallon chem tank in the future, but realistically I don’t see me using more than 20 gallons of straight SH in a day, since I don’t do roofs. It will probably get used for stubborn stucco/dryvit or similar.

I wouldn’t recommend a 100 gallon chem tank on a Tacoma. SH is 10 lbs/gal. You’d definitely exceed the weight rating, unless that was all you had back there.

As it stands, I’m going to be pushing it. Two 55 gallon tanks, a 20 gallon chem tank, and all the equipment. The buffer tank will have to be close to empty in transit.

Will definitely do that with the starter cord. If I ever need to pull the hoses straight back, I’ll mount some hose guides to the rub rails and do it that way. Not as effective as having the reels oriented in the direction you’re pulling, but I need to keep some open space at the back for the snowblowers :smirk:

I just re-laughed at “Mojave Rainforest”.

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I agree. I’d consider moving the PW as it sits to the left side of the bed.

Where will you keep the SC?
Also, will you install mud flaps behind those tires?

Surface cleaner? What’s that? :stuck_out_tongue_closed_eyes:

A definite yes on mudflaps, and will have some type of fenders, as well. Pretty sure they’re required by law, and just make sense.

Lol

Will you have any signage in the back?

Probably. Eventually. Losing steam and funding on this project :smirk:

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I know that feeling, I so want to start a build this winter but I am worried I won’t have the money to finish it with cash in hand. I might have to wait until the summer. Looking a little more I think I would swap the reels and put the electrics by the cab, that would allow you to use the normal handles. My hands are huge and I couldn’t put but on finger on those, that would get old quick.

I also think I would put the PW on the driver side so you can orient it parallel to the bed. Then you could just use the open area by the reels for tanks, a box for your pumps and batteries, storage or your DI tanks.

Just a though.

Joe

That was the original plan. Then I discovered that the electric reels have a larger footprint and would interfere with the placement of the water tanks.

I hold the knob handles in my (fairly small (but still proportionate to my frame)) fist. Turning my forearm vertical instead of horizontal means I won’t need quite as much room to operate the crank.

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