Since I’m in the helpful mood and wish I didn’t have to be in this case maybe some of you will get a laugh outta this. Probably @racer because I wasn’t prepared for something.
Had a small job last week and since I’m OCD about oil levels in the pumps and machines I noticed it looked like milk in the sight glass. Hit up Will (@Innocentbystander) and had a resource in his back pocket that diagnosed without even breaking it open.
Anyway. Got a new pump en route and repair parts so I can just swap out the pump on the fly if anything goes bad during the season.
If your oil case fills with water check the push rods first. Btw Will said these Udor push rods make General’s look like toys. I had to toss that last jab in there for the General fans.
How did it overheat? Have you figured out how do decipher Udor model numbers? Model 26/24 means nothing to me and it only seems to confuse me for some weird reason. You need to have bins of repair parts for your pumps. Step up your game buddy
Funny enough I have a repair seal and valve kit. Lol. That’s not even the right schematic. Mine’s a 26/28 and I’m looking at the two schematics and I can’t tell a difference.
I’m not sure it overheated so much as I didn’t get the pump emptied totally of water when I winterized and it froze?? I’m not totally sure. Most machine/pump questions and I usually shine my InnocentBystander light into the night sky or call my Landa dealer.
Well you having something on hand means you were at least trying. When you start getting into more and more of your pumps you’ll get your spare parts game up in no time. Have you considered blowing out your pump with air? I run a 1/2" cross (4-way) on my inlet, the left side of it has a 1/2"x3/8" mnpt hex nipple and a 3/8" ball valve followed by a 3/8" male ST series nipple. I use that nipple to blow air out of my pump, coil and hose. It also serves to upsteam even more chem when I need it, I just use a 1/2" ball valve to restrict my supply a bit more. The third inlet is my bypass back to my pump.
I too looked at the 26/24 and the 26/28 and saw the same head, seals, rpm etc. Why they decided to up the psi by a grand and give it a new part number is beyond me. I believe it’s the same pump but no way to tell on that from where I’m sitting.
Will told me to do that, but I never got around to it. Actually, I had a long list of winterizing everything else including putting the trailer up on jacks and missed the important part. Getting the pump emptied properly. I was just unhooking the unloader and hose and blowing out from the inlet with a make shift poly hose piece and a couple hose clamps.
I can’t believe you didn’t read a book about it BEFORE it happened. Say what you want but my poor little ole GP still running like a top and not barfed up in pieces on my shop floor like some people I know.
Seriously, sorry that happened. By next fall the way you’re going you should have a heated shop by then and not have to worry about.
If there was a book on repairing pressure pumps I woulda read it by now. In retrospect I shoulda got all the documents from Udor when I bought this one.
