I’m putting in my first bid for washing a commercial brick building. The white trim is EIFS. After researching here, it’s looking like applying roof mix (I usually go with 5-6% with the Fatboy 7 GPM) and rinsing at low pressure, mostly from the ground should take care of this. The building is a rectangle, and 1st picture is a short side of the building, and is the side with the most algae. One long side also has a fair amount of algae. The opposite long side (in the 2nd picture) has some algae, but not a ton, and the short side opposite to the 1st picture has very little. I’m estimating (hopefully conservatively) it will take ~50 gallons of SH ($200), and about 10 hrs ($1200). I’m thinking I should be able to get by without a lift, and just use a ladder if I need to get above the 2nd story signage. Do these numbers seem about right to you guys? Any tips from you who have done a building like this before?
With brick, I’ve always gone with the traditional pressure cleaning over softwashing. The stains are carbon/soot and are darkest where more rain/water flows down a building.
If I were in your shoes, I would upsell the sh*# out of sealing the brick once you’re done cleaning it to help preserve the appearance and prevent future stains. Siloxane can be sprayed on the brick, seals and is vapor permeable. DO NOT GET IT ON THE WINDOWS and scrub off with dawn/water mix when you do get it on the windows or your insurance will be paying for replacements.
I use Siloxane from Prosoco. There are 2 versions but it’s the same product. Siloxane PD (Pre Diluted) is ready to be sprayed straight out of the container. It comes in 5 gallon units and coverage is about 100 sq/ft per gallon. It costs about $200 per 5 gallon container. I buy Siloxane WB (Water Based). It is just the concentrate. Same product but you mix with water. 32oz per 5 gallons of water. It is $1100 but for much larger projects is the only way to go.
I plastic off windows prior to application. Make sure no cars are within range of splash-back or down-wind. I use it in both pump and battery powered sprayers without issue. Just purge out equipment with fresh clean water when finished.
If there is no wind and I’m feeling greedy, I will use a painter’s shield to block what I dont want to be sprayed. Soapy water and wipe dry if you do get it on glass. Metal is okay for some reason. It won’t discolor or leave a film. On windows though, it leaves a film your clients will inevitably call you out on. If it fully cures on the window, you need to use a flat razor scraper. It is a big pain in the ■■■. I’ve learned the hard way.
Just play it safe and tarp them. Chances are that is not the only property your client has and the more you take care of them, the more work they’ll send your way.
That’s a tough one. I usually tell clients between 2-4 years. It probably closer to 3-5 but if they have some drainage issues on their roof, it could be much shorter. It does make future cleaning much easier. Just water will remove damn near anything after application.
@Historic would the sealer keep any efflorescence at bay? Meaning would it keep it from forming initially;
or once you removed it would it keep it from returning?
Sealer doesn’t really work for efflorescence. It will definitely slow the process down but you’ve got to find the root of the problem to stop efflorescence. Wherever you see efflorescence, that’s where moisture is escaping so above the stain is where you would be looking for holes, cracks, etc. in the masonry, window cladding, or roof cap. Sealers are vapor permeable so the efflorescence is going to eventually come through.
Hit it with a strong sh mix, and everything came off great except for some streaking on the DriVit on top. Any ideas on what it could be and if they can come off. I’ve tried pressure, all the way up to 12.5% sh, and oxalic acid
