Auxiliary fuse box

I’m wondering if any of you tinkerers have a preferred fuse box you use for your electrical requirements?

My plan for Truck Norris is to run everything off of the deep cycle battery I installed in place of the starting battery. This configuration worked out surprisingly well for my last two vehicles, the Toaster and 4-Slice. It saves space and keeps the battery far away from any bleach. It’s an oversized battery, and could run my wfp pump for days without draining down.

The quality of my electrical work left something to be desired, though.

My plan for Truck Norris is to run a fat 0-1 gauge positive lead from the battery to a distribution panel/fuse box on the bed (this lead will also be fused at the battery, don’t worry :wink:) . Then a hefty distribution block grounded to the frame. I’d like something weatherproof and robust, but also not break the bank in the process. Recommendations?

In addition to the wfp pump, I will also be wiring power to two electric reels, some led lighting, and eventually to the starter on my machine

1 Like

Are you using a battery isolator?

Could you just use inline fuses connected to a loom and set in epoxy in a standard waterproof outdoor gang box?

How many fuses do you want in the box?

I have these in all of my rigs. They work great!

3 Likes

Don’t mind me. I like to do things the hardest way possible. I didn’t know those little fuse boxes existed. Thought they only came specific to certain vehicles. Lol

Electronics are obviously not my wheelhouse.

2 Likes

I switched from fuses on my trailer to waterproof breakers. That way you can reset if need be and not carry spare fuses.

1 Like

I use those on my big lines running long distance to batteries and or my auxiliary fuse boxes. They are nice!

Hmm. Expound please?

I won’t have the charging coil hooked up on my machine, so I won’t be back feeding a charge into my vehicle’s electrical system, if that’s what you are referring to.

I’ll have some type of master switch on my fuse box so I can kill power to all the auxiliary equipment.

1 Like

Master switch covers it if you don’t use up all your marine battery over a day or two. Battery isolator just allows those components to only draw off the marine battery and never get to your truck battery, but your truck can charge both. really helpful if there’s anything that causes a parasitic draw.

1 Like

I thought his marine battery was his only battery?

2 Likes

Bingo

1 Like

Now I’m tracking. I saw the high gauge cord run for the battery and for some reason I thought you meant from under the hood. Are you charging the marine battery with a battery tender?

Not that I’m trying to sell you on it, but that’s the purpose of a battery isolator. To charge two batteries, but separate them for different uses. Hope that explains what I was thinking. Lol

are we going to need one like this for the remote control?

Yes, from under the hood. I took out the factory starting battery under the hood, and replaced it with an oversized marine deep cycle battery. That will be the only battery on the truck.

So far I’ve never used a tender. I’ve been told that I could get some more life out of my batteries if I used one, though. I usually buy a new one every 2-3 seasons.

Marine batteries not made to be used like that. Drain and charge…not a continuous charge. I’m not an electrician though…so don’t take it as fact lol

Only if you choose. I’ll let you know. If you need one I’ll order it and throw it in.

1 Like

I run mine like that. But I’m also a part timer. Mine stay charged off the truck.

And that’s why I don’t mention it often or advocate it to other contractors. But my experience over the last 6 or 7 years of doing this has shown that it works just fine. The batteries don’t last forever, but the space savings and convenience are worth it.

1 Like

If you use a deep cycle, be sure to carry jumper cables and keep an extra alternator on hand. Most cars draw about 200 amps when starting. Deep cycle maxes out around 90 to 100. It will not likely fully charge either, so count on low amps.

I think the battery I have now is rated for 800 cranking amps or something like that. More than the factory battery, anyway