3 level cedar siding home

Alright wood guys, I have been doing a few decks lately and I have been refured to this home owner that had some nasty black staining on his beautiful house and guest house. I haven’t done a cedar house before but am looking for tips and ideas on how to go about this properly. He doesn’t mind staining the house again but would be happy of he didn’t have to as well. So I’ll post some pics and you guys can hopefully help with the process and chems.
As you can see the east side is very clean but the north is black.
He wants a test section done on this small section. Should I do my regular SH/water deck wash and clean full lengths of the boards? HELP!!! Thanx!!!

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it looks to be stained, odds are a simple sh house wash mix will clean it right up for you without damaging the wood

Sodium hydroxide ( DSR -50 ) from powerwash.com , then follow up with oxalic, let dry for a few days -follow up with stain…

And then treat it like a regular deck and clean 2 boards at a time at around 300-500 psi?

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[MENTION=8674]Emerson[/MENTION]. It depends on the stain. Most people tend to actually seal the wood when they stain it, if this is the case you can just softwash the siding like a standard house wash.

But it depends if it’s a sealer or a penetrating oil.

I’ll see what the product was. He did mention it was an oil.

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He’s checking tomorrow but so I’m clean will it be a Sealer or Oil for the standard house wash? It will drastically change the price considering scaffold rental and set up

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I think there is a much bigger problem here depending when this was coated last time. Do you know when it was last coated? Was it cleaned and re-coated last time? Was it stripped and re-coated at that time? There are two ways to fix this depending on the answers, if you would like call my cell @609-351-6117, way too much to type.

Owners been there 3 years. House was built in 2007. He isn’t sure when it was done but thinks it’s original. I’ll know more Monday or Tuesday. He is trying to get ahold of the previous owner.

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The left side looks real good if it is a 7 year old tinted sealer, which is what it looks like. The fact that the siding there looks good leads me to believe there is a way to clean it and eliminate the mold and mildew with out re-coating. I would still sell it as a strip, brighten, and recoat with my product of choice. If you are cleaning over old sealer with chlorine bleach and use it incorrectly you may remove what is left and have to re-coat. If I were to guess by the information you gave what usually happens is the previous owner gets it done prior to selling, probably done 3-4 years ago if that were to be the case.

Can I just say that this is a really cool home design? I would do a test with strong house wash mix on the north side. Eradicate that mildew this time without pushing too hard for a full restoration and you will be the guy to call when it does come time to strip and restain the whole house.

Got an update on the stain, it is Sikkens Cetol. Any body know about this product or would they be able to say if I could soft wash it or have to get in close with scaffolding now? I looked up the MSDS and it mentions
LONG OIL ALKYD RESIN and LINSEED OIL, POLYMERIZED if that helps at all!?!?!

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Where’s Everett!! Sikkens is one tough stain to deal with in my experiences.

This time of year very busy so that is why I left the phone number, sorry don’t check in every day. Sikkens can be very difficult to remove but will come off with the right stripper and proper dwell time. Good thing about it is that it is durable, so without a close up view and just relying on these pictures you should be able to wash this with a house wash mix, don’t go crazy on the bleach. All testing has showed that 3% is enough to remove mold and mildew on wood surfaces. I go a little stronger than that though. The problem you may run into though is if the mold and mildew is in the coating at all. Cover yourself in your proposal that you would just be cleaning surfaces and not responsible if re-coating is necessary. I would also submit a proposal for that though too at the same time so that they have that as well.

Will you be posting some pictures once you’re done with this job? I wanna see the final result.

I will be posting after pics. As soon as the job is complete. The owner might want it stripped now so I’ll be contacting Everette over the next few days to pic his brain.

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Sounds awesome. I’m looking forward to seeing the photos! Let me know when you’ve uploaded them.

This time of year very busy so that is why I left the phone number, sorry don’t check in every day. Sikkens can be very difficult to remove but will come off with the right stripper and proper dwell time. Good thing about it is that it is durable, so without a close up view and just relying on these pictures you should be able to wash this with a house wash mix, don’t go crazy on the bleach. All testing has showed that 3% is enough to remove mold and mildew on wood surfaces. I go a little stronger than that though. The problem you may run into though is if the mold and mildew is in the coating at all. Cover yourself in your proposal that you would just be cleaning surfaces and not responsible if re-coating is necessary. I would also submit a proposal for that though too at the same time so that they have that as well.

Also, I do not see where scaffolding is necessary on this project.

This time of year very busy so that is why I left the phone number, sorry don’t check in every day. Sikkens can be very difficult to remove but will come off with the right stripper and proper dwell time. Good thing about it is that it is durable, so without a close up view and just relying on these pictures you should be able to wash this with a house wash mix, don’t go crazy on the bleach. All testing has showed that 3% is enough to remove mold and mildew on wood surfaces. I go a little stronger than that though. The problem you may run into though is if the mold and mildew is in the coating at all. Cover yourself in your proposal that you would just be cleaning surfaces and not responsible if re-coating is necessary. I would also submit a proposal for that though too at the same time so that they have that as well.