I’m considering getting an injector bypass from Bob, but I want to make sure it’s worth the money. Up to now, I’ve been just switching my injector draw tube to a bucket of water to rinse, and that has been working fine. Do you get really get much more gpm using the bypass, or is it about the same?
Jesse
Atlas Services
Exterior Cleaning Specialists
North Carolina
Atlas Services | Asheville, NC’s #1 Power Washing
I’m a believer for sure!!!
Look through your downstreamer…you can see how small the orifice is, right? Now think about how much restriction there is in flow. Now compare that small opening to a bypassed 3/8’s hose…big difference.
8 gpm through a downstreamer comes out to around 5.5-6 gpm + loss in psi.
Just Get One!..You Won’t Be Disappointed!
Double Post…Sorry.
Enough said. Thank you!
Jesse
Atlas Services
Exterior Cleaning Specialists
North Carolina
www.CallAtlas.com
Glad I saw this thread, I must have something hooked up wrong. I actually feel like I lose pressure when I use the bypass to turn off my soap. I thought I had it right, but there must be a mistake somewhere. Maybe I’ll get a picture tomorrow and someone could offer a suggestion. Anyone one else have a similar experience?
Thanks
Joe
Just to confirm, you can look at Pressure Tek’s website to see a picture of how it’s set up.
Jesse
Atlas Services
Exterior Cleaning Specialists
North Carolina
www.CallAtlas.com
What’s wrong with just disconnecting the injector? My injector has quick couplings on it.
Just turning the valve on the bypass saves lots of time, wear and tear on fittings, etc.
Jesse
Atlas Services
Exterior Cleaning Specialists
North Carolina
Nothing at all…our downstreamers are QC’ed also…but to change you must #1…cut machine off…#2 depressurize hose…#3…take out downstreamer…#4…reconnect hose…#5…restart engine.
Remember you must do this twice to soap then rinse…Bypass injector eliminates all these steps…just go over and switch the valve…Done.
While taking in & out a QC’ed injector doesn’t take that long…Any time saved is money made.
Just Saying…
Ok I misunderstood. I don’t take the injector out to rinse. Only when I switch to the surface cleaner. But now you got me thinking…
Sent from my iPhone using Pressure Washing Resource
I just started using the bypass this week…you’ll love it!
Jesse
Atlas Services
Exterior Cleaning Specialists
North Carolina
www.CallAtlas.com
To see how much gpm you are losing, just look at your bypass hose in the tank. I lose at least 3 gpm because I am using a smaller injector on my 10 gpm machine. I wouldn’t want to lose ANY flow on my machine. Why buy a 10 gpm machine when the injector robs you of 3 gpm, and there is a way to stop the robbery!
So I’m thinking maybe I need one of these bypass systems. I guess they’re definitely worth the $$?
Absolutely!
So, has anyone configured their bypass so that the injector is on the bypass side, and the ball valve on the “straight-through” side? Essentially the opposite of how Bob’s kit is set up? Would it be worth it for me to switch things around?
I first stumbled on the recommendation from this site: https://www.pressurewasherproducts.com/pressure-washer-plumbing.html
I haven’t heard of anyone setting it up that way, bit it seems to make sense to me.
Alex, here is picture like you’re talking about. I agree. Had friend who actually tested back to back and the bypass like everyone sells knocks about 150psi off. Sometimes I just leave mine in but I run an injector sized for 3-5 gpm even on my 8.5. Knocks it down on flow to 7.5gpm. So unless I’m doing concrete, most the time I’ll just leave it on.
Thanks alot, @Racer …my maintenance day scheduled for next week just got longer…gotta change the bypass setup!
Seriously, thanks for the picture…very helpful!
Hey just got my bypass today… so in that pic is that the best way to set it up? Or should the downstreamer go in the middle?
